Portugal

EXPLORING THE TOWN In Praça Dom Sancho II, named in honor of the king who
reconstructed the town, stands the Sé (cathedral). Under a cone-shape dome, it’s a forbidding
fortresslike building decorated with gargoyles, turrets, and a florid Manueline
portal. The cathedral opens onto a black-and-white diamond square. It’s open daily from
10am to noon and 2 to 6pm. A short walk up the hill to the right of the cathedral leads
to Largo de Santa Clara , a small plaza that holds an odd Manueline pillory with four
wrought-iron dragon heads.
On the south side of Largo de Santa Clara is the Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Consolação
(Church of Our Lady of Consolation) , a 16th-century octagonal Renaissance
building with a cupola lined in 17th-century azulejos (tiles). It’s open daily 9am to
12:30pm and 2 to 5pm.
The castelo (castle), Praça da República, built by the Moors and strengthened by
Christian rulers in the 14th and 16th centuries, offers a panoramic view of the town, its
fortifications, and the surrounding countryside. It’s open daily from 9:30am to 1pm and
2:30 to 5pm (till 5:30pm Oct 10–Apr 1.)
SHOPPING The abundant folklore of this small town might whet your appetite for
souvenirs. Take a stroll along the town’s best shopping streets, Rua de Alchemin and Rua
de Olivença, where you’ll find rustic handicrafts appearing on all sides. If you want to
target your destinations in advance, consider the wares at Alchemin, Rua de Alchemin,
or any of the merchandise at the town’s leading clothier, Rente, Rua de Alchemin (& 26/
862-64-71).
WHERE TO STAY
Moderate
Estalagem Quinta de Santo António This once private quinta, dating
from 1668, now receives paying guests. This is one of the finest examples of Alentejo
architecture in the region, and the property is enveloped by a beautiful garden. The
interior was faithfully restored and decorated with antique furniture. The bedrooms are
generally spacious and exceedingly comfortable, with well-maintained bathrooms. The
on-site restaurant, A Quinta, is known locally for its superb cuisine of the Alentejo
school. Activities on-site or nearby include horseback riding, biking, and motorboat
rides.
Carretera de Barbacena, Abdo. 206, 7350-903 Elvas. & 26/863-64-60. Fax 26/862-50-50. 30 units. 61€–
100€ double; 90€–154€ suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. 6.5km (4 miles) northeast of
Elvas along Estrada de Portalegre. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; outdoor
pool. In room: A/C, TV, free Wi-Fi.
Pousada de Elvas, Santa Luzia A major link in the government-inn circuit
is the Pousada de Elvas, Santa Luzia, a hacienda-style building just outside the city walls.
It sits at the edge of a busy highway (Estrada N4), about a 5-minute walk east of the town
center. Fully renovated, with typical Alentejo hand-painted furniture, it was built in 1942
as a private hotel (which failed). The bone-white stucco villa faces the fortifications. The
ground floor holds a living room, an L-shape dining salon, and a bar, all opening through
thick arches onto a Moorish courtyard with a fountain, a lily pond, and orange trees.
The upper floor has some great guest rooms, and you can also stay in the nearby
annex, a villa with a two-story entrance hall and an ornate staircase. All rooms are comfortable
and cozily furnished. Because the hotel is small, it may be difficult to get a room
without a reservation.
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ALENTEJO & RIBATEJO 11
ELVAS