Portugal

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COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS
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COIMBRA
attraction. You get there by crossing Ponte de Santa Clara and heading out Rua António
Augusto Gonçalves. Once arrived, you’ll feel like Gulliver strolling through a Lilliputian
world. The re-creations include palaces, an Indian temple, a Brazilian pavilion (with
photos of gauchos), a windmill, a castle, and the 16th-century House of Diamonds from
Lisbon.
Jardim do Portugal dos Pequenitos. & 23/980-11-70. www.portugaldospequenitos.pt. Admission
8.75€ adults, 4.75€ children. Apr–Sept daily 9am–8pm; Oct–Mar daily 10am–5pm.
Quinta das Lágrimas Ever since the legendary poet Camões told the story of this
“Garden of Tears,” romantics from around the world have visited it. The gardens have
been the property of the Osorio Cabral family since the 18th century, but before that
they were owned by Inês de Castro, mistress of Pedro the Cruel, and their three illegitimate
children. It’s rumored that Dona Inês was killed by the spring fountain here, known
as the Fonte dos Amores. Today, you can wander the gardens and also stay at the deluxe
hotel on-site (see “Where to Stay,” below).
Rua António Augusto Gonçalves. & 23/980-23-80. Admission 3€. Daily 9am–7pm.
Outdoor Activities
There are tennis courts at the university stadium and at the Clube Ténis de Coimbra,
Avenida Urbano Duarte, Quinta da Estrela (& 23/940-34-69; www.clubeteniscoimbra.
com). All are open to the public and cost 7€ to 9€ per hour; call ahead to reserve a court.
For horseback riding or excursions in the Beiras, contact Centre Hippique de Coimbra,
Mata do Choupal (& 23/983-76-95), open daily 10am to 1pm and 3 to 7pm. A 1 1 ⁄2 to
2-hour excursion along country trails costs 15€ per person.
For swimming, head to the trio of pools at the Piscina Municipal, Rua Dom Manuel
I (& 23/979-66-20). Take bus no. 5 or 7 from the center. Open daily from 9am to 7pm,
it charges 5€ admission.
Shopping
Many of Coimbra’s most interesting shops lie near the Sé Velha, on the narrow streets
radiating from Rua do Quebra Costas. Because of its steep inclines, its name (The Street
That Will Break Your Back) seems appropriate. Look for lots of outlets selling products
manufactured in the surrounding region. The best bookstore, with a number of English
editions, is Livraria Bertrand, Largo da Portagem 9 (& 23/982-30-14), a block from
the tourist office.
Even the city’s tourist authorities usually recommend short excursions into the suburbs
and outlying villages for anyone seriously interested in shopping. Possibilities include the
villages of Lousã, 21km (13 miles) southeast, and Penacova, 21km (13 miles) east,
where unpretentious kiosks and stands beside the roads sell hand-woven baskets and
ceramics. Contact the tourist office (see above) for directions.
A worthier destination is Condeixa, 17km (11 miles) south; its shops are better
stocked, and the staff members are prepared for foreigners who don’t speak Portuguese.
To reach the village, take EN1 and follow signs toward Lisboa. Condeixa is home to nine
independent ceramics factories, which are the source of most residents’ income. The
most appealing are Ceramica Berardos, Barreira, EN1, Condeixa (no phone); and Filceramica,
Avenal, Condeixa (no phone). The merchants will usually agree (for a fee) to
insure and ship your purchases. Because of the expense, it’s usually a lot easier just to buy
an extra suitcase, wrap your porcelain carefully, and haul it back with you on the plane.