Portugal

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SETTLING INTO LISBON
5
GETTING AROUND
the natives to ride 6 inches from your rear bumper. The buses, of which there are a great
many, are very noisy, and produce volumes of smoke. Honking of car horns seems to be
a national pastime.” Her description is, unfortunately, apt. Even the most skilled chauffeurs
have been known to scrape the fenders of their clients’ rented limousines while
maneuvering through the city’s narrow alleyways.
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
CARRIS (& 21/361-30-00; www.carris.pt) operates the network of funiculars, trains,
subways, and buses in Lisbon. The company sells a bilhete de assinatura turístico (tourist
ticket). A 1-day pass goes for 3.70€. Passes are sold in CARRIS booths, open from 8am
to 8pm daily, in most Metro stations and network train stations. You must show a passport
to buy a pass.
METRO Lisbon’s Metro stations are designated by large m signs. A single ticket costs
.80€, a day pass 3.70€. One of the most popular trips—and likely to be jampacked on
corrida (bullfight) days—is from Avenida da República to Campo Pequeno, the brick
building away from the center of the city. Service runs daily from 6:30am to 1am. For
more information, call & 21/350-01-15 (www.metrolisboa.pt).
Surprisingly, riding the Lisbon Metro is like visiting an impressive art collection.
Paintings, glazed tiles, and sculptures make for an underground museum. You’ll see
interesting collections of contemporary art, including some works by famous Portuguese
artists such as Maria Keil and Maria Helena Vieira da Silva. Stations that display some of
the finest art include Cais do Sodré, Baixa/Chiado, Campo Grande, and Marquês de
Pombal.
BUS & TRAM Lisbon’s buses and trams are among the cheapest in Europe. The eléctricos
(trolley cars, or trams) make the steep run up to the Bairro Alto. The double-decker
buses come from London and look as if they need Big Ben in the background to complete
the picture. If you’re trying to stand on the platform at the back of a jammed bus,
you’ll need both hands free to hold on.
The basic fare on a bus or eléctrico is 1.40€ if you buy the ticket from the driver
(& 21/361-30-00; www.carris.pt). The transportation system within the city limits is
divided into zones ranging from one to five. The fare depends on how many zones you
traverse. Buses and eléctricos run daily from 6am to 1am.
At the foot of the Santa Justa Elevator, on Rua Áurea, there’s a stand with schedules
pinpointing the zigzagging tram and bus routes. Your hotel concierge should have information.
The antediluvian eléctricos, much like San Francisco’s cable cars, have become a major
tourist attraction. Beginning in 1903, the eléctricos replaced horse-drawn trams. The
most interesting ride for sightseers is on eléctrico no. 28, which takes you on a fascinating
trip through the most history-rich part of Lisbon.
ELECTRIC TRAIN A smooth-running, modern electric train system connects Lisbon
to all the towns and villages along the Portuguese Riviera. There’s only one class of seat,
and the rides are cheap and generally comfortable. You can board the train at the waterfront
Cais do Sodré Station in Lisbon and head up the coast all the way to Cascais.
The electric train does not run to Sintra. For Sintra, you must go to the Estação do
Rossio station, opening onto Praça de Dom Pedro IV, or the Rossio, where frequent