Portugal

412
PORTO SANTO MADEIRA & PORTO SANTO
15
Inexpensive
Praia Dourada Hotel This affordable hotel lies within the center of Vila Baleira. It
opened in 1980 and was last renovated in 1998. Its three floors contain standard, motellike
rooms. Rooms are light, airy, and well furnished, though they lack any particular
luster. Many units have private balconies. The hotel, about a 5-minute walk from a
beach, attracts many frugal Madeirans in the summer. Breakfast is the only meal served.
Rua D. Estêvão de Alencastre, 9400-161 Porto Santo. & 29/198-04-50. Fax 29/198-24-84. www.torre
praia.pt. 100 units. 84€–130€ double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; outdoor
pool; solarium. In room: TV.
WHERE TO DINE
Most guests dine at their hotels, which are also open to nonguests (see “Where to Stay”
above). Some little eateries around the island specialize in fresh fish.
Moderate
A Gazela REGIONAL PORTUGUESE We’re not turned on by this modern restaurant’s
location near the little Campo de Cima Airport, but it’s a local favorite because of
its tasty regional food and low prices. Islanders flock here for weddings, anniversaries,
and family reunions. Always look for the catch of the day, or try the classic Madeiran
specialty, espetada (skewered and grilled beef), or excellent fresh grilled tuna with sautéed
onions. Another specialty is beef loin a la Gazela (cooked with ham and cheese). The
restaurant is 1.8km (1 mile) from the center of town and about a 10-minute walk from
the Porto Santo Hotel & Spa.
Campo de Cima. & 29/198-44-25. Reservations recommended. Main courses 9€–23€. AE, DC, MC, V.
Daily noon–3pm. Bus: 3.
Inexpensive
Baiana PORTUGUESE Near the town hall in the center of Vila Baleira, this is a
regular rendezvous, popular with visitors and locals alike. In fair weather, guests select a
table on the sidewalk and order drinks, sandwiches, or full regional meals. The tasty
dishes include filet of beef cooked at your table and served with a selection of sauces.
Instead of beef, espetada comes with skewered squid and shrimp, delicately flavored and
served with fresh lemon. Pork in wine and garlic marinade is another tasty offering.
Rua Dr. Nuno S. Teixeira. & 29/198-46-49. Reservations recommended. Main courses 9€–16€. AE, DC,
MC, V. Daily noon–3:30pm and 6:30–11pm.
Teodorico REGIONAL PORTUGUESE Our longtime island favorite, this
restaurant occupies a former farmhouse. It has made its reputation on only one dish:
espetada (skewered and grilled beef), which is tender and filled with flavor. The dish
comes with fried potatoes, a salad, and two other vegetables. Locals wash this dish down
with a dry red wine that’s made on the island and sop up the juices with hearty regional
bread, páo de caco. The restaurant is in the hills, 3.5km (21 ⁄4 miles) northeast from the
center of Vila Baleira. In fair weather, you can dine outside (where the chairs are made
from tree stumps). If it’s cold, you can join the locals inside at a little table in a room
warmed by an open fire.
Sera de Fora. & 29/198-22-57. Reservations recommended. Main courses 8€–16€. No credit cards. Daily
7:30pm–midnight.