Portugal

206
SOUTH OF THE TAGUS
8
PALMELA
specify. Other choices include codfish stuffed with local cheese, monkfish with coriander
sauce; fried lamb chops with potatoes and tomatoes; and grilled filet steak with béarnaise.
Irene Lisboa 1-3. & 26/554-28-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses 11€–18€. AE, DC, MC, V.
Mon–Sat 12:30–3pm and 7:30–10:30pm.
SETUBAL AFTER DARK
The densest concentration of nightlife options lies near the western terminus of Avenida
Luisa Todi, the road leading west to a string of beaches. The most intriguing is Scandall,
Avenida Luisa Todi (no phone). A series of rooms with elaborately vaulted ceilings (which
long ago sheltered a convent) offer several bars and musical atmospheres. Although most
of the place seems designed for talking and drinking, one room functions as a dance club.
It’s open daily from 11pm until dawn.
Another rich concentration of nightlife options is in the seafront village of Albarquel,
less than 2km (about 1 1 ⁄4 miles) west of Setúbal. Try the late-night eatery Restaurant
All-Barquel, Praia de Albarquel (& 26/522-19-46), which caters to night owls of all
ages.
5 PALMELA
8km (5 miles) N of Setúbal; 32km (20 miles) SE of Lisbon
The village of Palmela lies in the heart of wine country, the foothills of the Arrábida
Mountains. It’s famous for its fortress, which offers one of the best views in Portugal from
an elevation of 366m (1,200 ft.). From this vantage point, you can see over sienna-hued
valleys and vineyards flush with grapes to the capital in the north and to the estuary of
the Sado to the south.
ESSENTIALS
Arriving
There is no bus or train service to Palmela.
BY CAR From Lisbon, cross the Ponte do 25 de Abril bridge and head south along E1.
Exit at the cutoff marked Palmela. From Setúbal, continue north along A2 to the same
exit.
Visitor Information
The local tourist office (& 21/233-21-22) is at the Posada de Palmela, Castelo de
Palmela (see below). The office is open in summer Monday to Friday 9:30am to 8:30pm;
in winter, hours are Monday to Saturday 9am to 1pm and 2 to 5:30pm (winter).
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Expensive
Pousada de Palmela, Castelo de Palmela This is one of the last remaining
segments of the town’s 12th-century castle. It was built as a monastery within the
castle walls in 1482, on orders of João I and dedicated to St. James. Its use as a pousada
kept it from falling into ruin, and the skillful, unobtrusive conversion preserved the classic
look and feel of a cloister. On the crest of a hill, the pousada is traditional in design;
a huge square building opens onto a large courtyard, and the lower-level arches have been
glassed in and furnished with lounge chairs.