Portugal

idge is the cattle market where oxen and steers are sold; little bags are nestled
between the horns of the animals, containing a “magic potion” said to
ward off the evil eye. Below the bridge is a place reserved for eating such
alfresco delights as roast sardines, accompanied by glasses of vinho verde
(green wine). If you take a walk along the riverside, you can survey the stalls of
various craftspeople, including cobblers, carpenters, and goldsmiths. Sometimes
you’ll see women wringing out their clothes along the riverbanks. At
certain times of the year, the Lima is likely to be dry, but when it’s full, anglers
often catch trout here.
Ponte de Lima has a collection of beautiful antique properties, ranging from
farms to manor houses—often, a stay at one of these unique accommodations
is reason enough to visit the town. There are about 60 such properties in the
region. Information about them is available through Turismo de Habitação,
4990-062 Ponte de Lima (& 25/874-16-72; fax 25/874-14-44; www.solares
deportugal.pt).
Another stellar property is the Paço de Calheiros, Calheiros, 4990-062
Ponte de Lima (& 25/894-71-64; fax 25/894-72-94). Perched on a hill overlooking
the town, it’s the best-known solar (country villa) in Ponte. The nine
doubles and three apartments in converted stables go for 110€. Breakfast and
parking are included. A first-rate dinner can be arranged on request. The solar
has lush gardens and a pool.
Back in Ponte de Lima, you can dine at Encanada, Rua do Castelo (& 25/
894-11-89), which serves the best regional cookery around. Try the special
fried pork or homemade fish cakes. Eels with rice is a local specialty, but it’s
available only in winter. Meals are served Friday through Wednesday from
noon to 3pm and 7 to 10:30pm; prices start at 13€.
Ponte de Lima (& 25/874-16-72; fax 25/874-14-44; www.solaresdeportugal.pt).
Payment is made by check sent directly to the owners, with 50% prepayment required
when your reservation is made. A minimum stay of 2 nights is required, and reservations
must be made at least 3 days before arrival.
The Viana do Castelo area has some of the most elaborate and stylized quintas in
Portugal. A random sampling follows.
Casa de Rodas Constructed in typical quinta style, with a red-tile roof and
stucco walls, this large guesthouse is between a wooded area and a farm that grows grapes
for consumption in Santiago de Compostela. It’s less than a kilometer (about 3 ⁄4 mile)
from Monção, which is known for its termas (spa) treatments for rheumatism and respiratory
ailments. Monção is 69km (43 miles) northeast of Viana do Castelo.
The house was built in the 16th century, destroyed by fire in 1658 during Portugal’s battle
for independence, and reconstructed soon afterward. Guest rooms come in a variety of shapes
and sizes, but all are well maintained and traditionally furnished, with neatly kept bathrooms
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THE MINHO REGION & TRÁS-OS-MONTES 14
VIANA DO CASTELO