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174<br />

ESTORIL, CASCAIS & SINTRA<br />

7<br />

CASCAIS<br />

Moderate<br />

Beira Mar Restaurante PORTUGUESE Cozy and crowded, with a terrace<br />

that spills onto a traffic-free plaza in front, this is the best restaurant in the center of<br />

Cascais. Established in the 1950s, with present management in place since 1973, it<br />

evokes a relatively simple seafront tavern, except that the food and service are a lot better<br />

than that cliché might imply. Within sight of a well-scrubbed kitchen, you’ll enjoy such<br />

menu items as a savory sopa de marisco (shellfish soup), filet of whitefish with shellfish<br />

rice, baked sea bass in a salt crust, or whitefish crowned with a banana. Grilled sole and<br />

several kinds of shellfish round out the menu.<br />

Rua das Flores 6. & 021/482-73-80. www.beiramarcascais.com. Reservations recommended. Main<br />

courses 15€–35€. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Mon noon–4pm and 7pm–midnight.<br />

Eduardo’s BELGIAN/PORTUGUESE Rustically decorated with regional artifacts,<br />

this provincial restaurant occupies the street level of a postwar apartment building in the<br />

center of Cascais. It’s named after its Belgian-born owner, Edouard de Beukelaer, who<br />

turns out savory Portuguese and Belgian meals. The well-prepared food might include<br />

filet steaks, braised filet of turbot, crayfish in butter sauce with capers, and veal liver.<br />

Nothing very imaginative is served, but everything is decently prepared.<br />

Largo das Grutas 3. & 21/483-19-01. Reservations recommended. Main courses 12€–32€; fixed-price<br />

menu 18€. AE, DC, MC, V. Thurs–Tues noon–3pm and 7–11pm.<br />

Reijos INTERNATIONAL/PORTUGUESE This place is likely to be<br />

crowded, so in high season you’ll have to wait for a table or abandon all hope—this<br />

intimate, informal bistro is that good. The menu combines fine American and Portuguese<br />

foods with pleasing results. Justifiably popular items include grilled lobster with<br />

butter sauce, shrimp curry, and filet mignon. Two dishes from Macau are prepared at<br />

your table: beef with garden peppers, and shrimp with cucumbers. Fresh seafood includes<br />

sole, sea bass, grouper, fresh salmon, and bacalhau a Reijos (oven-baked dry codfish with<br />

cheese sauce). Unlike many European restaurants, Reijos serves fresh vegetables with its<br />

main dishes at no extra cost. The service is excellent.<br />

Rua Frederico Arouca 35. & 21/483-03-11. Reservations required for dinner. Main courses 15€–32€. AE,<br />

DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 12:30–3:30pm and 7–11pm. Closed Dec 15–30.<br />

Inexpensive<br />

B&B Restaurante PORTUGUESE No, the B&B in the name doesn’t stand<br />

for bed and breakfast—rather for bom and baratoa, meaning good and cheap in Portuguese.<br />

The little eatery lives up to its namesake. One reader wrote that she would gladly<br />

have paid double for the meal she consumed here. The restaurant is run by a expat<br />

Frenchman who arrived in town some 30 years ago. The octopus usually wins a rave from<br />

most clients; it’s slowly cooked in the oven for about 2 hours before it’s lightly grilled in<br />

olive oil and fresh herbs. The catch of the day can also be served grilled and golden<br />

brown. The cook is superb at turning out shrimp as well. Many diners end their meal<br />

with a glass of port.<br />

Rua do Poço Novo. & 21/48-20-686. Reservations recommended. Main courses 9€–12€. No credit cards.<br />

Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6:30–9:45pm.<br />

Dom Manolo PORTUGUESE In the center of Cascais—in fact, on its main<br />

street—this Spanish-operated restaurant and grill looks like an Iberian tavern. The<br />

kitchen dishes out reasonably priced, tasty, uncomplicated regional fare. It attracts more<br />

local residents than fancy foreign visitors. The perfectly cooked spit-roasted chicken, with

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