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casinos and overpopulated beaches. From its central square to its stone seawalls, it<br />

remains unspoiled. Take Avenida do Brasil north from Figueira da Foz to get to Buarcos.<br />

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES Figueira da Foz is on a wide, sandy beach, on a site first<br />

occupied by the Lusitanians. In July and August, the beach is usually packed body to<br />

body. Those who don’t like sand and surf can swim in a pool sandwiched between the<br />

Grande Hotel da Figueira and the Estalagem da Piscina on the main esplanade.<br />

You can also trek into the Serra da Boa Viagem, a range of hills whose summit is a<br />

favorite vantage point for photographers and sightseers. Bullfights are popular in season;<br />

the old-style bullring operates from mid-July to September.<br />

Near Figueira da Foz, the Quiaios Lakes are ideal for sailing and windsurfing. (For<br />

information, contact the tourist office in Figueira da Foz; see above.) Another good<br />

center for windsurfing is the bay at Buarcos, adjoining Figueira da Foz. You can rent<br />

most windsurfing equipment at kiosks right on the beaches.<br />

SHOPPING If you’re looking for handicrafts, head for Shangrira, Rua Dr. Calado<br />

(& 23/342-80-11), or Chafariz, Rua do Estendal 34 (& 23/342-06-86). They carry<br />

terra cotta, glazed porcelain, and some carved wood, leatherwork, and incised or burnished<br />

copper and brass. Looking for gold or silver filigree? Try the Ourivesaria Ouro<br />

Nobre, Praceta Dr Joaquin Lopez Feteira 11 (& 23/342-39-52), for one of the town’s<br />

most appealing selections.<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

Ibis Figueira Da Foz Just a 5-minute stroll from the sandy beach, this is a<br />

midsize, efficiently run, affordable, and functional hotel. It’s dependable but hardly dramatic,<br />

with a chain format and streamlined but standard bedrooms. The structure itself<br />

has more character than most cookie-cutter Ibis hotels because it was created out of a<br />

vastly restored stone house that was erected during World War I. Bedrooms are medium<br />

in size and comfortably though blandly furnished, each with a small bathroom.<br />

Rua da Liberdade 20, 3080-168 Figueira da Foz. & 23/340-81-90. Fax 23/340-81-95. www.accorhotels.<br />

com. 47 units. 55€–79€ double. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Bar. In room: A/C, TV.<br />

Mercure Figueira da Foz This renovated 1950s-era hotel, on the seafront promenade<br />

overlooking the ocean, is the leading choice in town, and it’s a leading favorite with<br />

tour groups. The hotel’s interior is a world of marble and glass, more like that of a big-city<br />

hotel than a resort. A few of the midsize rooms on the sea have glass-enclosed balconies; most<br />

have open balconies. The hotel is open all year, though it’s sleepy here in January.<br />

Av. do 25 de Abril 22, 3080-086 Figueira da Foz. & 23/340-39-00. Fax 23/340-39-01. www.mercure.com.<br />

102 units. 95€–125€ double; 165€–185€ suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities:<br />

Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5€ per hour).<br />

Pensão Esplanada Across from a sandy beach, this little boardinghouse is in a<br />

building that dates from the turn of the 20th century, although the establishment itself<br />

dates from the late ’80s. This recommendation is strictly for the frugal traveler who wants<br />

a Portuguese seaside holiday on a slim purse. Frankly, the place has creaky joints, and the<br />

rooms are not at the peak of their glory, although they are scrubbed daily. Hallway bathrooms<br />

are generally adequate unless the hotel is operating at its peak capacity. At least no<br />

one complains when it comes time to pay the bill.<br />

Rua Engenheiro Silva 86, 3080-086 Figueira da Foz. & 23/342-21-15. Fax 23/342-98-71. www.pensao<br />

esplanada.com. 16 units, 10 with bathroom. 50€–70€ double. Rates include buffet breakfast. No credit<br />

cards. In room: TV.<br />

297<br />

COIMBRA & THE BEIRAS 12<br />

FIGUEIRA DA FOZ

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