Wooden Boat Restoration Repair - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy

Product tip—G/flex
655 Epoxy Adhesive (or
650 Epoxy thickened
with an adhesive filler)
has a higher elongation
than 105 Resin-based
epoxy, making it more
suitable for bonding
heavier, less
dimensionally stable
framing members.
4.7 Keel repair
4.7.1 Keel bolt repair
Repairing the Structural Framework 25
3. Wet out the screw holes (new and old) in the planks, frames and keel with
resin/hardener mixture, using a pipe cleaner or syringe. Wet out the edges and inside
surface of the plank and the bonding areas of the keel and frames with resin/hardener
mixture.
4. Apply liberal amounts of G/flex 655 Epoxy Adhesive (or 650 Epoxy thickened with an
adhesive filler) to the mating surfaces of the keel and frames.
5. Install the garboard with the original screws (Figure 4-12). Start at the middle and work
toward both ends.
6. Form a fillet along the keel/garboard joint with the excess epoxy and form a fillet
where the planking meets the frames.
7. Follow the same procedure and install the garboard on the opposite side of the keel.
8. Bond the remaining planks together with 105 Resin-based epoxy thickened with 406
Filler, following procedures discussed in Section 5.
A keel is a major structural component and should get extra care and special
investigation. Skegs, deadwood or fin keels can pose special problems. Deadwood can
be inside or outside the planking line and typically has a fair number of exposed seams.
It is generally not wise to encase the skeg or deadwood in a fiberglass/epoxy skin unless
you have stabilized the joints in the structure.
Worm damage may require replacement of the specific pieces.
If work is needed on the garboards, floors or frame heels, it is a good idea to examine
the keel while the garboards are off. The joints and rabbets are prime locations for rot
to start. These joints between the pieces of the deadwood or skegs are notorious places
for leaks. The keel bolts or drifts passing from the ballast keel up through the
deadwood, keel and floors allow water to pass up and into the hull.
Follow these procedures to repair the keel:
1. Remove the paint or any other coatings or coverings and allow the hull to dry out
thoroughly (possibly schedule this work for the spring after the boat has had the winter
to dry out).
2. When the seams are open or the keel or deadwood timbers have shrunken, clean out
any old paint, caulking or debris. Make sure that the wood in the joints is dry.
3. Work G/flex 655 Adhesive or 105 Resin-based Epoxy thickened with 406 Filler into
the joints with a plastic spreader from one side until the epoxy comes out the other
side. Clean up excess epoxy from the surface and allow the epoxy to cure.
4. Either coat the exterior of the skeg or deadwood with epoxy or cover it with a
fiberglass/epoxy skin. Orient the fiberglass with the fibers running ±45° to the grain.
If there has been leaking around the keel bolts, floor bolts, rudder tube or propeller
shaft, follow these procedures:
1. Support and secure the boat and ballast keel.
2. Fabricate a deep engagement hole saw by first cutting the end off a hole saw of slightly
larger diameter than the bolt to be repaired. Braze the hole saw teeth to the end of a
pipe of the same diameter and long enough to chase the length of your longest keel
bolt. Weld a piece of round stock into the other end of the pipe to serve as a bit for a
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