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Making a door sandwichI intend to make a heavy front door, 2% in. thick, 36 in.wide and 77 in. tall, with two glass panels. Rather than constructit of solid stock, with conventional mortise-and-tenonjoints, could I make it a three-layer sandwich of %-in. plywood,as shown below, glued together with epoxy?-Paul Carson, Minneapolis, Minn.---=-=77:----- ILayers are glued togetherwith epoxy glue.John Birchard replies: Making anone you describe by laminating three layers of %-in. material isa viable approach, as long as you are careful to use good-qualityplywood that is very dry and of a uniform thickness. You aresmart to use an epoxy glue for this type of lamination, because itwill hold well even if your joints are not perfectly tight. I recommendSystem Three Quick-Cure epm.)', available from SystemThree Resins, Box 70436, Seattle, Wash., 98107; (206) 782-7976.Your main problem will probably be finding enough C-clampsfor dle glue-up. You might want to use as many as 100-two evely6 in. all dle way around. if you can't get dlat many clamps togedler,you could use finish nails, which can be set and puttied. Youmight also consider doweling dle frames togedler before youlaminate them so you don't have to worry about getting the railto-stilebutt joints tight while you're laminating. You could evenmake the window holes a little bigger on one of the frames soyou won't have to rout out a rabbet for the glass after the laminationis together.Uohn Birchard is a professional woodworker in MendOCino, Calif.]Oil bleeding problemsI was oiling several raised-panel mahogany doors with clearWatco oil. After the oil dried overnight, there was a thicksludge of oil that couldn't be removed from the surface. Themanufacture,-'s instructions say to reoil and wipe immediately,but this didn't help. I called Watco and was told the oilworks its way out of the pores and that lacquer thinner willclean it up. This does work, but very slowly. Is there anythingelse I can do?-Tim Tomaselli, Salt Point, NYBob Flexner replies: Varnishes and sealing oils, such as linseed,tung and Watco Danish oil, cure and harden mrough aprocess of solvent release and polymerization. As the turpentine,mineral spirits or other solvents evaporate, the resin moleculeslink up and form a hard film that can no longer be dissolved bythese solvents. When you spread one of these oils onto a porouswood, such as oak, walnut or mahogany, the oil penetrates fairlydeeply into the pores and remains mere even after me surfaceexcess is wiped off. Even dl0Ugh the oil immediately begins topolymerize over any surface exposed to air, the resins will havetrouble linking-up over the pores, because the solvents continueto break through as they evaporate. As the solvents come to thesurface, they carry along resins that spread out around me pores.If these resins are not wiped off in time, they polymerize on thesurface, forming hard shiny spots, much like scabs over wounds.The problem is worse on warm days or when the wood ismoved to a warmer atmosphere, which excites the molecules ofthe trapped solvents. But, as you have probably experienced, itoccurs even on cold days.I don't know of any way to prevent oil from bleeding, but Ihave found dlat I can avoid the problem if I apply the oil early inthe day and wipe the surface every hour or two before me resinshave a chance to harden. The bleeding usually stops by the endof the day. The next coat causes fewer problems, because thepores are now partially or fully sealed. You are correct dut neitherthe application of more oil nor lacquer thinner will removefully cured spots. These spots should be abraded off wim finesteel wool or sandpaper, possibly using some more oil as a lubricant.As a last resort, dle finish should be removed with paintand varnish remover, and you should start over.[Bob Flexner is a professional finisher and restorer in Norman,Okla. His videos "Repairing Furniture" and "Refinishing Furniture"are available from The Taunton Press, Box 355, Newtown,Conn. 06470.]Two glue problemsFor some time I have been having problems with yellow glue.The glue seems to grow out of the joint after the project hasbeen finished, so I have to resand and refinish the piece. I usuallyfinish with Watco oil. How can I solve the prOblem?-Ray Allen, Yuma, Ariz.I've been using epoxy for gluing furniture for some timenow. It works very well for restoring old splintered joints,but I hesitate to use it too much, because I've heard epoxy istoo rigid to accommodate normal wood movement. I'vealso heard that you should not use it, because it is impossibleto disassemble to make repairs.- Colin Conolly, Corvallis, Oreg.George Mustoe replies: After years of listening to woodworkerswony about "which glue is the strongest," it's refreshing toreceive two letters that illustrate that strengm alone doesn'talways determine whemer an adhesive performs adequately. Theexperiences of Allen and Conolly can both be traced to the greatrange of rigidity among various types of adhesives. Soft-settingglues include contact cement, hot-melt thermoplastic sticks andboth the white and yellow varieties of polyvinyl acetate (PVA)glue. These adhesives produce a rubber-like glue film that cancreep under load. For dlis reason, they are not recommendedfor heavy-duty applications, such as laminated structural beams,where intense stress may cause dle joints to deform or rupture.As Allen discovered, soft-body glues may bulge or shrink as dlesurrounding wood undergoes changes in its moisture content.This is particularly common when a thick glue layer is present.Yellow glue sets to a harder consistency than white glue, and itshouldn't cause problems if it's used on well-mated surfaces.Make sure to use just enough adhesive to coat the surfaces;applying a thick layer is asking for trouble.At me omer end of dle spectrum, Conolly is worried about epoxybeing too rigid an adhesive. ExceSSive rigidity is not a problemwim epoxy. In fact, epoxy's hard, but not brittle, durability is oneof its best features. In contrast, hide glue and urea-formaldehydeplastic resin glue bodl form brittle films that sometimes fail dueto internal fracturing wimin the glass-hard layer of cured adhesive.The inherent brittleness of these adheSives usually causesno difficulties, as long as the glue film is kept min. AlthoughConolly is correct in his statement that epoxied wood joints arevirtually impossible to disassemble, me same can be said of mostodler adhesives. Synmetic mermoplastic resins can be softenedusing heat, but even wim these glues, taking apart a joint isalways a tricky procedure.With any type of woodworking adhesive, maximum performancecharacteristics are obtained when the glue line is kept asthin as possible. This means close-fitting surfaces; uniform adhesiveapplication using a brush, roller or spreading stick; andfirm, evenly-distributed pressure during curing. If you have touse glue to fill up the voids of a poorly fit joint, make me best12 Fine Woodworking
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Using a Holtzapffel ornamental lath
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