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The author makes raised panels for the wardrobe doors on therouter table. In the first step, shown above, he reduces the thicknessof each panel's edge by running the panel vertically by astraight bit. A fingerboard clamped to a spacer provides the pressureneeded to stabilize the panel as it's fed. This fingerboard alsoprevents the climb-cutting bit from self-feeding the panel.ing on p. 58. The shelf is notched so the edge of the shelf is flushwith the front of the stile.Originally, I'd planned to let the base of my wardrobe rest onthe floor, with a decorative molding at the bottom edge. However,I saw another base treatment I liked in the Ketchum book andadapted this base to fit my wardrobe. With this new base, the carcaseis cut out to make four feet, with gentle convex curves coming upfrom the floor along the insides of the feet-a pleasant visual effect.Drawing in scale, I experimented with various curves until I cameup with one I liked. I scaled up this curve on graph paper to makea full-size plywood template, which I used to mark out the cabinetsides. After roughing out the curve with a sabersaw, I clamped thesame template to the cabinet side and routed the final shapes witha piloted straight bit bearing against the template.Creating tl1e same cUlved feet on the front of the war Irobeinvolved modifying the cabinet's otherwise straightforward faceframe. I used a typical face frame, assembled witl1 mortise-andtenonjOints, on the front of the cabinet and a frame-and-panelback. But the stiles weren't wide enough for the same cLllve I hadcut on the cabinet sides, so I glued 1 Y2-in.-wide ears to tl1e insideedges of the stiles, providing stock for tl1e curved feet. I cut thebottom rail shorter than the top rail and tenoned it to the earpieces instead of the stiles. If I'd made the bottom rail extra wideto accommodate the cutout, I would have created a wood-movementproblem by joining a 6-in.-wide rail cross-grain to the faceframe's stiles.Gluing up a cabinet of this size was quite a task in my smallshop. The cabinet's size stretched every clamp in the shop to itscapacity. The carcase dovetails were tight enough that they didn'tneed clamping, but tl1e pin tenons needed to be pulled into theirmortises witl1 pipe clamps. A 2x4 I had carefully bandsawn into abow shape (convex surface toward the cabinet) was used as a caulto distribute clamping pressure across the sides. After the carcasewas dry, I glued on tl1e already assembled face frame.Though plywood is a suitable and more-often-selected choicefor the back of a large cabinet, I decided to stick to tl1e more traditionalsolid-wood frame-and-panel back. This frame consists ofthree stiles and four rails mortised and tenoned together, dividingthe back into four panels. The panels themselves are flat and only% in. thick, the same thickness as the grooves in the frame. Theentire glued-up back recesses into the rabbet cut in the back of thecarcase earlier.Hagood uses a homemade beading plane to detail the inner edgesof the door frame. The mahogany plane has two nonsymmetricalbead-profile blades, one for cutting in each direction. A piece ofquarter-round molding on the underside of the plane guides italong the frame'S inner edge fo r a straight cut.operations can be time-consuming, but I don't know a faster way tomake pin tenons or an alternative joint that has the same integrity.As with most wardrobes, mine has a high shelf for storing clothingabove the hanging garments. The -in.-thick shelf joins theinside of the carcase by sliding into a simple %-in. by %-in. dadoplowed into the cabinet sides. The dado is the same depth as therabbet cut along the back edges to accept the frame-and-panelback. I cut the dado with a %-in. straight bit in a router, using astraight board clamped across the cabinet side as a fence. Becausethe 4/4 shelf must span the width of the 42-in. cabinet, I supportedthe middle of the shelf with a lap joint on the 1 Y2-in.-wide centerstile. Dovetails at the top and bottom of the stile connect to thefront edges of the carcase top and bottom, as shown in the draw-Building frame-and-panel doors -After measuring the faceframeopening, I made a pair of door frames that fit snugly into tl1eopening. The frames are joined with haunched mortise-and-tenonjoints, and each member has a 6-in.-wide groove, cut with adado blade on the tablesaw, to hold the panel. The bottom doorrails are wider than tl1e top rails, to overcome visual foreshortening,which makes bottom rails look narrower than tl1ey are. I letthe stiles run long to prevent splitting during mortising, thentrimmed them to lengtl1 after the doors were assembled.I raised my panels with a router, homemade router table andtwo different bits. The first operation was to reduce tl1e tl1icknessat tl1e panel's edge with a Y2-in. straight bit. The panel's edges wererouted with tl1e panel on edge and held tight against the fence by afingerboard clamped directly above the bit, as shown in tl1e topphoto on this page. To produce tl1e cleanest cut pOSSible, especiallywhile shaping the panel's endgrain, I climb-cut the panels, feedingthem into the bit counter in t11e same direction it was spinning. Ifyou uy this, make sure to take several shallow passes on each edge,to prevent dangerous self-feeding, which can occur when c1imbcutting.The pressure of the fingerboard also prevents self-feeding,60 Fine Woodworking