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Q & A (colltillued)of a bad situation by using epoxy. It's about the only glue thatdisplays an acceptable degree of gap-filling ability without sacrificingother physical properties.[George Mustoe is a geochemistry research technician at WesternWashington University in Bellingham, Wash.]Japan-finishing a planeI have several old Stanley planes that I would like to refurbish.I have no difficulty cleaning and tuning the planes,but I don't know how to japan the parts that are in badshape. Is there some home process available that will allowme to duplicate the original finish?-Harold Shipley, Memphis, Tenn.Graham Blackburn replies: The japan finish used on oldStanley planes was a tough, durable coating composed of pigmentsand synthetic resin varnish, dipped or sprayed on, then baked attemperatures ranging from 250°F to 350°F. In short, japanning isbaking on enamel. Duplicating this process isn't practical athome and can be extremely dangerous. An alternative is to use amodern air-drying enamel. These enamels are less resistant towear, but they are easy to apply and capable of producing resultsthat look just like the plane's original finish. The air-dryingenamels formulated for household use are sometimes called"liquid enamels," because they closely resemble porcelain orvitreous enamels-like japan. Avoid using lacquer-base enamelson your planes: They are cheap and fast drying, but less durablethan the air-dtying enamels.[Graham Blackburn is a conu'ibuting editor to Fine Woodworkingand has written numerous books on woodworking and tools. Hisshop is in Santa Cruz, Calif. ]Braces and ball-bearing chucksI was thrilled to find an old brace with a 14-in. swing, butunfortunately, I'm unable to make it work. Someone has replacedthe original jaws with newer ones that are apparentlytoo small. Also, the chuck appears to be designed for ballbearings, but they're missing. Can you help me repair mychuck?-Bob Clark, Collinsville, Va.Richard Starr replies: It's good that your brace has a ball-bearingchuck. TIle ball bearings reduce friction, making it easy to snugup any bit with just a little twist on me chuck shell. This isn't soimportant when chucking an auger bit witll a tapered, squareshank, but it u'emendously improves tlle chuck's ability to firmlyhold round-shank bits, which are more prone to slipping.Most brace chucks have an Loosening setscrew allowsouter shell that rotates around adjustment of shell, to set tightnessthe jaws to tighten them against of ball bearings in race.the bit, and there's considerablefriction between the shell andjaws as tlle collar tightens. Asthe outer shell on a ball-bearingchuck turns, however, a freefloatinginner collar bearsagainst the jaws and closesthem. The outer surface of eachjaw is flat (instead of round ason non ball-bearing chucks) andslides in a groove milled in theinner collar, to keep it alignedas it closes. To minimize friction,the outer shell and innercollar bear against ball bearingsOutershellthat roll freely in a race or groove that's formed between them(see the drawing above). To replace tlle missing ball bearings,first loosen the small setscrew on tlle outer shell, then unscrewthe shell to remove it. You can get replacement balls by scroungingthem from another ball-bearing chuck on a junker brace, oryou can take the chuck to a good bicycle repair shop and ask forthe kind of loose balls used in bicycle hubs. Loosely assemblethe outer shell and inner collar, then dribble in balls until youform a ring of balls in tlle race. Screw the shell back on thechuck until there's just a little play and the ball bearings rollfreely wimout rattling.Fixing the jaws on your brace might be more difficult. Jawsare seldom interchangeable between braces, and finding a pairthat would fit is unlikely. Some chucks are designed with aspring to hold the jaws apart; on others, the jaws flop aroundloosely, separated at the bottom by a protruding tab in the jaws.You could make a pair of jaws yourself, but because you don'thave a pattern, this could be tedious trial-and-error work witll ahacksaw and file. You'd have to use a blank of tool steel softenough to work, then temper it to a color between blue andstraw, so tlle jaws would be hard enough to resist galling, yetnot be brittle.There are lots of good old brflces out tllere, but few wim a 14-in.swing. As a last resort to save yours, you may end up havinganomer chuck welded on-not a pretty solution, but functional.[Richard Starr is a teacher and the author of Woodworking withKids, The Taunton Press, Box 355, Newtown, Conn. 06470.]Northwest red alderRed alder is very plentiful here in the Pacific Northwest, and Ihave been conSidering using it for some custom bathroomcabinets. Is it dimensionally stable, and how should it besealed to prevent moisture damage in a bathroom ? The woodseems rather brittle, and when left in the weather, it rots tomush in only a year's time. Am I asking for trouble?-Robert Moen-Starr, Raymond, Wash.Jon Arno replies: I certainly don't see any tragedy in using redalder for interior cabinets. In fact, because it is readily availableand inexpensive in your area, it is probably the best choice youcould make. If it was equally available here in the Midwest, Iwould prefer it to birch, even though birch is one of the primarywoods for commercial cabinets.COinCidentally, red alder (Alnus rubra) is a member of thebirch family (Betulaceae), and I would choose this wood as thepick of the litter. With an average specific gravity of only 0.37(oven-dty weight/green volume), it is much softer and easier towork than yellow birch, which has an average specific gravity of0.55. Red-alder heartwood has a beautiful rose-pink color, andbecause it produces a fibrous layer of cells along the annual rings,its tangential figure is more like cherty than it is like its cousinbirch. Red alder is also more stable than birch: Its average volumetricshrinkage is only 12.6%, versus 16.8% for yellow birch.If the stock you use for tlle cabinets is thoroughly seasoned,you shouldn't have any trouble. Red alder holds nails and screwswell, accepts glues and sealers without difficulty, and because itis a diffuse-porous wood, polishes down to a smooth finish withoutrequiring fillers. As for finishing alder, or any other cabinetwood, Irecommend first applying a penetrating oil stain to achieve thedesired color, then follow this with at least three coats of satinpolyurethane varnish. Polyurethane may not rub down as well asotller varnishes-I don't use them on fine furniture-but for yourpurpose, you want the most impervious moisture barrier youcan achieve. The polyurethane will prevent raised grain and waterspotting when the wood gets that inevitable splash from thesink or the shower stall. Although neither alder nor birch areknown for their durable weatllering properties, normal interiorhumidity levels are low enough so this should not be a problem.Uon Arno is a woodworker and amateur wood technologist inSchaumburg, IlL]Send queries, comments and sOUl'ces oj supply to Q & A, FineWoodworking, Box 355, Newtown, Conn. 0.6470.14 Fine Woodworking
PORTER-CAB' FPUTS THE SCREWS TOTHE COMPEl IliON.If you want a cordless driverldrill that works as hard as you do,pick up PORTER-CABLE'S NEWMODEL 9850 12-VOLT 3/8"DRIVER/DRILL with exclusiveMAGNEQUENCH® power. Thistough tool has the guts to do thejobs other units can't handle. Andto keep working long after thecompetition has run down.Why? The 12-volt battery packhas full-size, select, gradednickel-cadmium cells for maximumenergy. Combined with thenext generation in cordless toolmotors-MAGNEQUENCH usingrare-earth magnets that dramaticallyincrease the power ofmotors-you get higher torquewith less battery drain. In fact, the9850 produces substantiallyhigher watts output than competitivecordless driver/drills.So take charge of your next jobwith Porter-Cable's new 9850Cordless DriverlDrill. At PorterCable distributors everywhere.x TESr RESULtS11/2 wood of 1112 Independent labofatorytests shOwthe quantityscrews vanous COtdtess dnver/drills candnve on one charge195America's Working ClassPORTER+[ABLEPROFESSIONAL POWER TOOLSP. o. BOX 2468 · JACKSON,TN 38302
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Page 18 and 19: Easy toStep by Step DrawingsBuildOn
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Page 22 and 23: There areover 4,000money-savingreas
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Page 26 and 27: THE BARTLEYBUNDLES!AlJ.500 ·24"Ban
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Page 36 and 37: FineWorking January/February 1989M
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Page 43 and 44: Secret compartments were so common
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Page 57 and 58: use a dust collector, and if possib
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Page 61 and 62: and it shields your fingers from ex
Page 63 and 64: The cabinet scraper used by the aut
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Fig. 3: Curved miterPattern doesn't
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Fig. 2: Air flowMoist air exits thr
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Long prized by woodworkers for its
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Chinese shaping toolsThroughout Chi
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Using a Holtzapffel ornamental lath
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CARBIDE TIPPED ROUTER BITSPRCAL PRO
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FS Tool CorporationP.o. Box 510, 21
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FI:\ISHI:\G SLPPLIESIf you have bee
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Dependable extra hands for all type
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