L’Oréal Professionnel Technique, c’est chic IT’S OFFICIAL, 2018 IS THE YEAR OF TECHNIQUES. AS COLOUR SERVICES ENTER THE MAINSTREAM ON SOCIAL MEDIA, WE EXPLORE HOW COLOUR CHOICE IS BECOMING LESS IMPORTANT AS IT’S ALL IN THE TECHNIQUE 42 | <strong>PAINT</strong>
From a colourist’s perspective, the age-old question is what comes first – the colour or the technique. Last year saw a huge focus on the technique and the tonal choice was secondary. This is set to carry on Jo O’Neil International technical education and director for Toni&Guy WHAT BEGAN WITH ombre led to balayage and then it went on to contouring – we don’t know where it will end up, but we do know that clients are ever more interested in the techniques used, rather than the shade. And we have social media to thank for that. Professional techniques are now one of the biggest awareness drivers in the colour industry, fuelled by the increase in both consumers and professional influencers showcasing their techniques and looks on social media (in particular Instagram). In 2017, there were more than one million Google searches for balayage and this is only set to grow. “From a colourist’s perspective, the age-old question is what comes first – the colour or the technique,” says Jo O’Neil, international technical education and director for Toni&Guy. “Last year saw a huge focus on the technique and the tonal choice was secondary. This is set to carry on.” While colour is inarguably important, all salons need to be onboard the technique train if they want to stay ahead. “The advances in technology mean that box colour is better than ever, so we need to be really hot on our techniques to keep the client coming back for something she can’t do herself at home,” says Jack Howard at Paul Edmonds. Professional techniques, no matter what a box says, can’t be replicated at home. Good news for salons as colour choice becomes less important and actual application technique is what matters. So what techniques can you look forward to trying out this year? Is it time to say bye-bye to balayage and good-day to glazing? “Balayage has evolved as people have experimented with it, and it now falls into different categories – creative, classic, micro and Californian – and this allows colourists to work in different ways, which gives them more creativity,” says Jack. And colour brands are leading the way, with Redken keen to portray itself as the ‘technique perfector’ with Shades EQ and TIGI launching five new techniques this spring as part of its latest collection. Each new technique is “designed to take the concept of colour customisation to the next level”, explains Warren Boodaghians, TIGI global academy technical director. “Whether working with commercial or creative colours, the palette can be simplified to suit the wearer.” Our favourites include Punk Placement – strong, block colours are diffused in certain areas with softer colours to soften the overall boldness; Aurora – fluid colouring inspired by the Northern Lights; and Sheer Glazing – working with the same overall tone, a solid under colour blends through to the focal area. While it’s important to be aware of all the latest techniques, Amy Fish, <strong>PAINT</strong>ER and colourist at Larry King, believes the oldies are goldies and highlighting is making a comeback. “It’s highlighting but not to the root,” she explains. “Balayage has taken over these past couple of years, but I feel highlighting is making a comeback. There’s much more to highlights than there used to be.” “Highlights are not leaving our salon anytime soon,” says Rocio Vaquiero-Lago, technician at Michael Van Clarke. “However, we do look at ways to change it up and make them more modern or on-trend by mixing them with other colour application techniques. For example, adding a touch of balayage throughout the ends can add more texture and depth.” <strong>PAINT</strong> | 43
Change language