A dictionary of modern gardening - University Library

C AC 111 C AL
quite dry, and winter in a dry, airy
part of the green-house. In spring,
again remove to the pelargoniumhouse,
and use a very little water,
which increase as the season advances.
" By the end of the second summer
they will have grown to the size of
good blooming plants ; and in the
autumn they should be placed out in a
warm airy part of the garden, to ripen
the shoots thoroughly.
" About the usual time of housing
other green-house plants they should
be again dried, and put, as before, in
the green-house ; place the first for
forcing in the intermediate stove about
the 1st of February, and continue a
succession, till they bloom in the greenhouse,
which is about June.
^
" Such plants will bear the greatest
extremes of dryness and moisture, and
without proper attention is paid at the
season of rest to keep them quite cool
and dry, they never will bloom properly.
The forcing must be commenced
at a low temperature, and water at first
given sparingly.
" When they have begun to grow
freely, and the bloom-buds are well
started, they must be watered, not by a
continued dripping, but by copious applications,
and at intervals of a fortnight,
during the growing season, with
liquid manure.
" Wlien the bloom-buds are sufHciently
advanced, thin out all those
which are large and small, leaving
them as near one size as possible, and
at proper distance to allow the blooms
to e.xpand. When they have flowered,
keep the plants rather dry for a short
time, and place them in a cool shady
part of the green-house, or under a
north wall. In a few weeks they will
again assume their usual firm and
healthy appearance, and begin to grow ;
and then clear off all the decayed
blooms and seed-pods, and place the
plants for the autumn in the garden in
a south aspect, where there is a free
circulation of air, giving them a good
supply of water ; after this they are
moved to the green-house and treated
as before. Train them to iron stakes,
made to fit the outside of the pots or
tubs, and fasten them with wire. Attention
should be paid to early training,
and to stopping all shoots as soon as
they attain tlie required height ; all useless
side and bottom shoots rub off, and
[
—
occasionally some of the old shoots cut
out, and replace with young ones."
Gard. Chron.
CADIA purpurea. Stove ever-green
shrub. Cuttings. Light loamy soil.
C.T:LESTINA. Three species.—
Green-house and half-hardy perennials.
C. micrantha is a half-hardy evergreen
shrub. Seeds. Common open soil.
CiENOPTERIS. Five species. Stove
and green-house ferns. Division. Peat
and loam.
CiESALPINA. Twenty-one species.
Stove evergreen shrubs or trees. C.
scandens is a climber ; C. gilliesii is
deciduous. Seeds. Sand, peat and
open loam.
C.i^SIA vittata. Green-house tuber-
ous-rooted perennial. Seeds. Sandy
loam and peat.
CALABASH. Crcscentia.
CALABA TREE. Calophyllum
calaba.
CALADENIA. Ten species. Halfhardy,
or stove orchids. Division.
Peat, loam, and sand.
CALADIUM. Twenty-eight species.
Chiefly stove herbaceous perennials or
evergreen shrubs. Tubers. Rich soil.
Some grow best in water ; C. simsii is
a climber.
C A L A M I N T H A. Nine species.
Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials
two are evergreen shrubs. Suckers.
Light loam.
CALAMPELIS scabra. Half-hardy
evergreen climber. Cuttings. Light
loam.
CALAMUS. Six species. Palms.
Seeds. Rich sandy loam. A moist atmosphere
suits them.
CALANDRINIA. Seven species.
Stove, green-house, or hardy herbaceous
plants. Seeds or cuttings. Loam and
peat.
C.\LANTHE. Nine species. Stove
or green-house orchids. Division. Peat
and loam.
CALASHEA. Eleven species. Stove
herbaceous perennials. Division. Sandy
peat.
CALATHIAN VIOLET. Gentiana
pneumonanthe.
CALCAREOUS SOIL is a soil in
which chalk (carbonate of lime) predominates.
When in great excess it
renders the colour a near approach to
white, in proportion to that e.\ce.-s. No
soil is productive which does not contain
some chalk, or in which it exceeds
;