A dictionary of modern gardening - University Library

POT 478 POT
ered in the neigbourhood of a whitetubered
variety, the seedlings, in all
probability, will in part resemble both
their parents ; but seldom or never does
a seedling resemble exactly the original
stock. At all events, only such should
be preserved as are recommended by
their superior earliness, size, flavour, or
"
fertility.
The early varieties— if planted on
little heaps of earth, with a stake in the
middle, and when the plants are about
four inches hisrh, being secured to the
stakes with shreds and nails, and tlie
earth washed away from the bases of
the stems by means of a strong current
of water, so that the fibrous roots only
enter the soil—will blossom and perfect
seed.
Forcing.—The season for forcing is
from the close of December to the
middle of February, in a hot-bed, and
at the close of this last month on a
warm border, with the temporary shelter
of a frame. The hot-bed is only required
to produce a moderate heat.
The earth should be six inches deep,
and the sets planted in rows six or eight
apart, as the tubers are not required
to be large. The temperature ought
never to sink below Go*^, nor rise above
80°.
The rank steam arising from fermenting
dung is undoubtedly injurious to the
roots of potatoes ; and to obviate this
they may be planted in narrow beds,
and the dung applied in trenches on
each side ; or all the earth from an old
cucumber or other hot-bed being removed,
and an inch in depth of tVesh
being added, put on the sets, and cover
them with four inches of mould. At
the end of five days the sides of the old
dung may be cut away in an inward
slanting direction, about fifteen inches
from the perpendicular, and strong linings
of hot dung applied.
If the tubers are desired to be brought
to maturity as speedily as possible, instead
of being planted in the earth of
the bed, each set should be placed in a
pot about six inches in diameter; but
the produce in pots is smaller. But
young potatoes may be obtained in the
winter, according to the following plan,
without forcing :—
Plant some late kinds, unsprouted, in
a dry rich border, in July, and again in i
August, in rows two feet apart. They
will produce new potatoes in October, I
and in succession until April, if covered
with leaves or straw to exclude frost.
If old potatoes are placed in dry earth,
in a shed, during August, they will emit
young tubers in December.
Preparation of Sets for forcing.—
They should be of the early varieties.
To assist their forward vegetation, plant
a single potato in each of the pots intended
for forcing, during January.
Then place in the ground, and protect
with litter from the frost. This renders
them very excitable by heat; and, consequently,
when plunged in a hot-bed,
they vegetate rapidly and generate tubers.
The seed potatoes are equally
assisted, and with less trouble, if placed
in a cellar just in contact with each
other, and as soon as the germs are
four inches long, are removed to the
hot-bed.
Management.—More than one stem
should never be allowed, otherwise the
tubers are small, and not more numerous.
Water must be given whenever the
soil appears dry, and in quantity proportionate
to the temperature of the air.
Linings must be applied as the temperature
declines; and air admitted as
freely as the temperature of the atmosphere
will allow. Coverings must be
afforded with the same regard to temperature.
From six to seven weeks usually
elapse between the time of planting and
the fitness of the tubers for use. The
average produce from a light soil is
about five pounds.
There is another mode of obtaining
young potatoes, during the winter,
which is much practised on account of
its facility; though, being produced
without foliage, they are not so fine in
flavour, are deficient in farina, and are
otherwise inferior. Old potatoes often
throw out from their sides young ones,
early in the spring ; and of this habit
advantage is taken in obtaining them
still earlier. Some full-grown and ripe
tubers, of the ox noble variety, that
have no appearance of vegetating, must
be laid alternately with layers of perfectly
dry, rich, vegetable mould, four
inches deep, in pans or boxes, until
they are filled. These may be placed
in a thoroughly dry shed, or on a shelf
in the kitchen. If the layers are constructed
in the corner of a shed or cel-
lar, the produce will be equally good,