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A dictionary of modern gardening - University Library

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H E D 2S8 HED<br />

not been clipped. Very high hedges are<br />

both troublesome and expensive to cut.<br />

The clipping is sometimes performed<br />

by the assistance <strong>of</strong> a high machine,<br />

scaffolding or stage, twenty or thirty<br />

feet high or more, having platforms at<br />

different heights for the men to stand<br />

upon, the whole made to move along<br />

upon wheels ; it is composed <strong>of</strong> four<br />

long poles for uprights, well framed<br />

together, eight or ten feet wide at bottom,<br />

narrowing gradually to four or<br />

five at top, having a platform or stage<br />

at every seven or eight feet high, and<br />

one at the top <strong>of</strong> all; and upon these<br />

the man stands to work, each platform<br />

having a rail waist high to keep the<br />

man from falling ; and a sort <strong>of</strong> a ladder<br />

formed on one side for the man to<br />

ascend, and at bottom four low wheels<br />

to move it along ; upon this machine a<br />

man may be employed on each stage<br />

or platform, trimming the hedge with<br />

shears, and sometimes with a garden<br />

hedge bill fixed on a handle five or six<br />

feet long, which is more expeditious,<br />

though it will not make so neat work<br />

as cutting with shears.<br />

A hedge is not only an imperfect<br />

screen, but in other respects is worse<br />

than useless, since nothing can be<br />

trained to it, and its roots exhaust the<br />

soil in their neighborhood very considerably;<br />

as the south fence <strong>of</strong> a garden<br />

it may be employed, and hawthorn<br />

is perhaps the worst shrub that could<br />

be made use <strong>of</strong>. It is the nursery <strong>of</strong><br />

the same aphides, beetles, and caterpillars,<br />

that feed upon the foliage <strong>of</strong><br />

the apple and pear, from whence they<br />

spread to the trees nearest the hedge,<br />

and finally overrun the whole garden ;<br />

evergreen are better than deciduous<br />

hedges, and more especially the holly,<br />

which is not so slow a grower as is<br />

generally imagined.<br />

In a cloudy day in April or May, the<br />

wind seems to be actually refrigerated<br />

in passing through a thick hawthorn<br />

hedge, and this may be accounted for<br />

on the same principle that cool air is<br />

obtained in the houses <strong>of</strong> India, by<br />

sprinkling branches <strong>of</strong> trees with water<br />

in their verandas. Holly, laurel, and<br />

most evergreens, exhale but little moisture<br />

from their leaves, except for about<br />

a month in June, consequently in April<br />

and May, when we most require warmth,<br />

and in September and October, the<br />

leaves <strong>of</strong> these, when fully exposed to<br />

the sun become heated to the touch to<br />

85° or 90"^. Added to this, hoar frost<br />

or a deposition <strong>of</strong> moisture <strong>of</strong> any kind<br />

never attaches so readily or remains<br />

for so long a time upon the foliage <strong>of</strong><br />

evergreens as upon the sprays <strong>of</strong> deciduous<br />

shrubs, consequently the refrigeratory<br />

power is greatly diminished.<br />

When the garden is <strong>of</strong> considerable<br />

extent, three or four acres and upwards,<br />

it admits <strong>of</strong> cross-walls or<br />

fences for an increase <strong>of</strong> training surface<br />

and additional shelter.<br />

Hedges should always be clipped into<br />

a conical form, as the diminution <strong>of</strong> the<br />

branches towards the top increases their<br />

developement at the bottom.<br />

Furze makes one <strong>of</strong> the best and<br />

handsomest <strong>of</strong> hedges, if kept regularly<br />

clipped. Upon the formation <strong>of</strong> such a<br />

hedge, we have the following remarks<br />

by Mr. McI. <strong>of</strong> Hillsborough :<br />

—<br />

" The most ancient and perhaps the<br />

most simple <strong>of</strong> all fences are walls<br />

made <strong>of</strong> turf. These walls, however,<br />

are much injured by the atmosphere,<br />

and the rubbing and butting <strong>of</strong> the cattle.<br />

To guard against this they should<br />

be planted or sown with the Ulex Europaus<br />

or Furze. The roots <strong>of</strong> this plant<br />

will soon penetrate the turf, and tend<br />

to bind the wall. The plants not only<br />

afford shelter as well as food for the<br />

cattle, but add to the height <strong>of</strong> the wall<br />

and give it a formidable appearance.<br />

When walls are made for this, the<br />

foundation should be three feet wide,<br />

and tapering to fifteen inches at top.<br />

As the plants advance in growth, they<br />

should be regularly trimmed with the<br />

shears ;<br />

by proper attention to this they<br />

will be prevented from growing too tall<br />

and thin at the bottom. If this is annually<br />

repeated, the plants will be<br />

longer preserved in a healthy and vigorous<br />

state; clipping has also a good<br />

effect in checking the furze from spreading<br />

over the field. A good and substantial<br />

fence may thus be quickly formed<br />

over on a soil that will not produce a<br />

biding fence <strong>of</strong> any other kind.<br />

" Sweet Briar (Rosa Rubiginosa)<br />

makes a good hedge. Its heps may be<br />

sown in the autumn, as soon as ripe,<br />

or, which is better, in the month <strong>of</strong><br />

March, having kept them in the mean<br />

time mixed with sand. But it is far<br />

more convenient to buy for sweet briar<br />

layeryoung plants from the nurserymen,<br />

and to plant them a foot apart early in

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