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A dictionary of modern gardening - University Library

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MU S 386 M U S<br />

When the outside <strong>of</strong> the house is<br />

the j<br />

! at<br />

1 and<br />

back i<br />

finished, a floor or ceiling is made over<br />

it, as high as the top <strong>of</strong> the outside<br />

walls, <strong>of</strong> boards one inch thick, and<br />

apart, vvith slides, s, to ventilate with<br />

when necessary.<br />

Fig. 102.<br />

standards. The flue to commence<br />

the end <strong>of</strong> the house next the door,<br />

running the whole length to return<br />

paralleled, and communicate with<br />

plastered on the upper side, e tf, with the chimney; the walls <strong>of</strong> the insides<br />

road sand, well wrought together, an to be the height <strong>of</strong> four bricks laid flat,<br />

inch thick; square trunks,/, being leltiand six inches wide; this will allow a<br />

in the ceiling nine inches in diameter,} cavity, f, on each side betwixt the flues,<br />

up the middle <strong>of</strong> the house, at six feet two ;<br />

Two single brick walls, v v, each five<br />

bricks high, are then to be erected at<br />

three feet and a half from the outside<br />

walls, to hold up the sides <strong>of</strong> the floor<br />

beds, a a, and form at the same time<br />

one side <strong>of</strong> the air flues. Upon these<br />

walls, V V, are to be laid planks four<br />

inches and a half wide and three inches<br />

thick, in which are to be mortised the<br />

standards, I k, which support the<br />

shelves. These standards to be three<br />

inches and a half square, and four feet<br />

and a half asunder, fastened at the top,<br />

k k, into the ceiling. The cross bearers,<br />

i i,i i, which support the shelves, o o,<br />

must be mortised into the bearers and<br />

into the walls; the first set <strong>of</strong> bearers<br />

being two feet from the floor, and each<br />

succeeding one to be at the same distance<br />

from the one below it. The<br />

shelves, o o, are to be <strong>of</strong> boards one<br />

inch and a half thick ; each shelf having<br />

a ledge in front, <strong>of</strong> boards one inch<br />

thick, and eight inches deep, to support<br />

the front <strong>of</strong> the beds, fastened outside<br />

inches wide, to admit the heat from<br />

their sides into the house. The middle<br />

cavity, x i/, should be covered with tiles,<br />

leaving a space <strong>of</strong> one inch betwixt each.<br />

The top <strong>of</strong> the flue, including the covering,<br />

should not be higher than the<br />

walls that form the fronts <strong>of</strong> the floor<br />

beds. The wall itself is covered with<br />

three rows <strong>of</strong> tiles, the centre one covering<br />

the cavity x y, as before mentioned,<br />

the outside cavities, / t, are left<br />

uncovered.<br />

As the compost, the formation <strong>of</strong> the<br />

beds, &c., are very difl^erent from the<br />

common practice, I shall give a connected<br />

view <strong>of</strong>Mr. Oldaker's directions.<br />

The compost employed is fresh horsedung,<br />

which has been subject neither<br />

to wet nor fermentation, cleared <strong>of</strong> the<br />

long straw, but one-fourth <strong>of</strong> the short<br />

litter allowed to remain, with one-fourth<br />

<strong>of</strong> dry turf mould, or other fresh earth :<br />

this enables the bed to be made solid<br />

and compact, which is so congenial to<br />

the growth <strong>of</strong> mushrooms.<br />

The beds are to be made by placing<br />

a layer <strong>of</strong> the above compost, three<br />

inches thick, on the shelves and floor,<br />

which must be beat as close as possible<br />

with a flat mallet, fresh layers being<br />

added and consolidated until the bed is<br />

seven inches thick, and its surface as<br />

level as possible. If the beds are<br />

thicker, the fermentation caused will<br />

be too powerful ; or, if much less, the<br />

heat will be insiifticient for the nourishment<br />

<strong>of</strong> the spawn. As soon as the<br />

beds intimate a warmth <strong>of</strong> 80^ or 90",<br />

they are to be beat a second time to<br />

render them still more solid, and holes<br />

made with a dibble, three inches in<br />

diameter and nine apart, through the<br />

compost, in every part <strong>of</strong> the beds;<br />

these prevent too great a degree <strong>of</strong><br />

heat arising and causing rottenness.<br />

If the beds do not attain a proper<br />

heat in four or five days after being put<br />

together, another layer, two inches<br />

thick, must be added. If this does not<br />

increase the heat, part <strong>of</strong> the beds must<br />

be removed and fresh horse-droppings<br />

mixed vvith the remainder. The spawn

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