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A dictionary of modern gardening - University Library

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ue 240 FUC<br />

the stalk, is the first to ripen. This is<br />

most perceptible in pears, especially in<br />

the chaumontelle. That end therefore<br />

should be slightly imbedded in the<br />

sand; and thus excluding it from the<br />

light, checks its progress in ripening."<br />

—Principles <strong>of</strong> Gardening.<br />

FUCHSIA. Twenty species, besides<br />

many varieties. Green-house evergreen<br />

shrubs. Seed and cuttings. Light rich<br />

loam and peat.<br />

Varieties for open borders.—F. Riccartonia;<br />

globosa; gracilis; Thomsonii;<br />

Clintonia; conica ; reflexa; erecta ; and<br />

virgata.<br />

For Pot-culture.—Brockmannii ; Exoniensis<br />

; Colossus ; Attractor ; Enchantress;<br />

Eppsii; Stanwelliana ; Splendida;<br />

Defiance ; Laneii ; Toddiana ; Champion<br />

; Victory; Majestica; Paragon;<br />

Splendens; Fulgens; Robusta ; Youellii<br />

; Chandlerii ; Venus Victrix ; Money-<br />

pennii ; Standishii; Dalstonii ; Curtisii<br />

Eclipse; Rosa Alba; and Spectabilis.<br />

There are about eighty other named<br />

varieties <strong>of</strong> diii'ering degrees <strong>of</strong> merit.<br />

Soil.—The best is formed <strong>of</strong> equal<br />

parts rotted turf, sandy loam, and peat.<br />

Propagation by seed.—Sow directly<br />

it is ripe. Bruise the berries, wash<br />

away their pulp, mix the seed with<br />

sand, sow thinly in pans <strong>of</strong> the soil just<br />

described, and place in the green-house.<br />

Prick into thimbles when the seedlings<br />

are large enough for handling; place<br />

under a hand-glass, in a stove or hotbed,<br />

for a few days, and then remove<br />

into a green-house. Shift into larger<br />

pots as the roots fill those in which they<br />

are growing.<br />

By cuttirigs.—No plant is more easily<br />

propagated by cuttings at any season o<br />

;<br />

—<br />

the same stock. This is very desirable<br />

where room has to be husbanded. Cut<br />

away to the length <strong>of</strong> one and a half<br />

inch, half the thickness <strong>of</strong> the two shoots<br />

to be united, bind them together; sever<br />

through the scion three-fourths <strong>of</strong> its<br />

thickness, just below the junction, keep<br />

in a warm moist atmosphere, and in<br />

three or four days the junction will be<br />

complete. F. fulgens, F. Cormackii<br />

and other strong growing varieties are<br />

the best stocks." Gard. Chron.<br />

To make specimen Fuchsias. — "In<br />

order to have specimen plants <strong>of</strong> Fuchsias,"<br />

says Mr. G. Watson, " put in<br />

cuttings in the beginning <strong>of</strong> August<br />

planting them round the rims <strong>of</strong> five<br />

inch pots filled with light sandy soil<br />

and well drained ; then place in a cucumber-frame<br />

till sufficiently rooted,<br />

and afterwards remove to a cool and<br />

airy part <strong>of</strong> the green-house, and let<br />

them remain till February. In that<br />

month, pot <strong>of</strong>f into small sixties, and<br />

when well rooted in these pots, two or<br />

more healthy and well-shaped plants <strong>of</strong><br />

each variety put into larger pots according<br />

to their size. While young, care<br />

must be taken that the earth, in which<br />

they are growing, does not become<br />

soured by over watering, or the plants<br />

will soon become sickly. When they<br />

have filled these pots with roots, the<br />

plants must be removed into larger<br />

pots and carefully tied up to sticks in<br />

order to keep the leading shoots upright,<br />

as several <strong>of</strong> the varieties have a<br />

tendency to grow downward, and it is<br />

only with constant care that these varieties<br />

are kept vigorous.<br />

" About the second week in June,<br />

shift for the last time into pots suffi-<br />

the year than the Fuchsia, but the best ciently large to bloom them in \ ; in pot-<br />

season is from the end <strong>of</strong> May to the<br />

end <strong>of</strong> July. Have the cuttings about<br />

three inches long; strip the leaves <strong>of</strong>f<br />

the lower half <strong>of</strong> their lengths, and plant<br />

in pots, having the surface <strong>of</strong> the compost<br />

in them to the depth <strong>of</strong> an inch<br />

covered with sand. Plant in this the<br />

cuttings, so thattheir ends just touch the<br />

compost. Moisten the sand, place the<br />

pots in a green-house under the cover<br />

<strong>of</strong> hand-glasses. When rooted, pot<br />

singly in sixties.<br />

ting particular attention must be paid<br />

to the drainage, so that the superabundant<br />

water may be easily passed <strong>of</strong>f.<br />

" Plants treated in this manner will<br />

begin to bloom pr<strong>of</strong>usely at the latter<br />

end <strong>of</strong> July, and continue flowering till<br />

the end <strong>of</strong> Septjjmber ; during this period<br />

the pots should be placed in pans,<br />

so that the plant may be well supplied<br />

with water, and yet not constantly<br />

soaked in it.<br />

" Plants thus treated, with their<br />

I<br />

I<br />

By grafting. — "The early part <strong>of</strong> shoots pruned<br />

May is suitable for grafting /Mc/isias, or form beautiful<br />

to three or four buds,<br />

objects for turning out<br />

rather for inarching them, as this is de- into the flower garden the following<br />

cidedly the most successful mode <strong>of</strong> summer; but if very large specimens<br />

are required, their pot room must be<br />

combining more than one variety upon ,<br />

;

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