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A dictionary of modern gardening - University Library

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—<br />

VIN 618 VI<br />

cies and several varieties. Hardy<br />

evergreen trailers. Division. Common<br />

soil.<br />

VINE. Vitis vinifera. See Grape<br />

Vine.<br />

VINE BOWER. Clematis Viticella.<br />

VINE LEEK. Allium ampeloprasum.<br />

VIOLA. Violet. Ninety-nine species.<br />

Chiefly hardy herbaceous perennials,<br />

annuals, deciduous and evergreen<br />

trailers, a few are half-hardy, and a<br />

few others belong to the green-house.<br />

The herbaceous kinds increase by division<br />

or seeds : the shrubs by cuttings.<br />

The annuals by seeds. Loam, peat, or<br />

leaf-mould, and sand suits them best.<br />

VIOLET. Viola odorata.<br />

Varieties.—The best are Neapolitan,<br />

Russian and Neapolitan Violets.—<br />

There are two double varieties <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Russian, the purple and the white. At<br />

the close <strong>of</strong> autumn, in a rich yet light<br />

soil, some year-old plants <strong>of</strong> each variety<br />

should be planted, some in a border<br />

which is exposed to the full meridian<br />

sun; some in a border which only receives<br />

its morning rays; and a third<br />

quantity in pots on a north border. The<br />

only attention they require is to keep<br />

them free from weeds, and to remove<br />

all runners as they appear. These will<br />

bloom in succession from March until<br />

the end <strong>of</strong> May; and if those in pots in<br />

the north border are prevented from<br />

blooming by having their flower-buds<br />

picked <strong>of</strong>f as they appear until late in<br />

May, and are then plunged in the<br />

j<br />

:<br />

|<br />

!<br />

1<br />

double pale blue; Russian, h[\ie; Tree border which enjoys the morning sun,<br />

Violet, semi-double, blue, stem eighteen they will, if carefully watered and atinches<br />

high. Double Blue; Whiter tended, bloom in June and early in July.<br />

Pink.<br />

The double purple may be most suc-<br />

Soil.—All the varieties prefer a light cessfully cultivated in this way. For<br />

rich soil on a well drained subsoil. forcing, Mr. Ayres directs some year-<br />

Stable manure makes them too luxuriold plants <strong>of</strong> the Neapolitan varieties<br />

ant; and when they require the addi- to be taken up after having done flowertion<br />

<strong>of</strong> a fertilizer, none is so beneficial ing, and planted in a light rich border,<br />

as leaf-mould, or the bottom <strong>of</strong> an old a foot apart each way, care being taken<br />

wood stack.<br />

Propagation. — By Division, &c.<br />

to remove all runners, but to injure the<br />

roots as little as possible. A copious<br />

They all multiply by parting the roots, watering is to be given at the time <strong>of</strong><br />

and by their side shoots rooting in the<br />

earth. They may be parted or slipped<br />

planting ; they should be shaded through<br />

the summer, and all runners removed<br />

in spring, summer, or autumn, as soon as they appear. In September, the<br />

as they have done flowering, in moist<br />

weather. Each plant may be slipped<br />

or divided into several slips, not too<br />

Neapolitans with good balls <strong>of</strong> earth<br />

are to be placed in forty-eight or thirtytwo<br />

size pots, and removed into a gentle<br />

small; and planted either at once to hot-bed, and protected by a frame. If<br />

remain, or the weakest may be planted air be admitted freely and the heat be<br />

in nursery beds; and in either method kept up very gently, these may be<br />

each slip will soon increase into a large brought to bloom in February. Another<br />

tuft, and flower abundantly the next mode <strong>of</strong> making the Neapolitan violet<br />

year. bloom during the winter is to plant some<br />

<strong>of</strong> the runners at the end <strong>of</strong> April, in<br />

By Seed.—Sow it either soon after it '<br />

is ripe, or early in the spring, in a bed small pots filled chiefly with leaf-mould,<br />

or border <strong>of</strong> light earth, and raked in ; watering them until rooted, and then<br />

and when the plants are come up an moving them to a cold shaded place, as<br />

' inch or two high in summer, prick them the north side <strong>of</strong> a wall—the colder the<br />

out in a shady border to grow till Oc better. In October bring them under<br />

tober, and then plant out to remain. the sunny side <strong>of</strong> the green-house, or<br />

Pink Violets. — The best time to into an empty frame to be closed at<br />

plant them is in September, but they night, and then move them the second<br />

should be planted in a dry situation. week in December into a sunny window<br />

and not fully exposed to the sun at any or green-house. They will bloom in<br />

part <strong>of</strong> the day. The principal points January, and for some months after, by<br />

to attend to are, never to disturb them having a proper succession,<br />

^ by clearing or digging about them, Dr. Lindley says— " To have Russian<br />

and always to plant them in a shaded violets in flower during winter, you<br />

j<br />

place. must treat them in the following man-

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