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A dictionary of modern gardening - University Library

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ER Y 213 ERY<br />

hardy evergreen creepers. Division.<br />

Sandy peat.<br />

ERYNGIUM. Thirty-four species.<br />

Chiefly hardy herbaceous. Division or<br />

seed. Common soil.<br />

ERYTHRyEA. Eleven species.<br />

Chiefly hardy annuals. Seed or divi-<br />

brick rubbish at least six inches thick ;<br />

over that lay some small sticks, leaves,<br />

or moss, to prevent the soil from getting<br />

into the drainage, and in filling up,<br />

raise the bed six inches above the level<br />

<strong>of</strong> the surrounding soil— with a compost<br />

consisting <strong>of</strong> rich turfy loam, leaf-<br />

'<br />

j<br />

'<br />

|<br />

I<br />

sion accordingly, as they are annuals or<br />

perennials. Loam<br />

ERYTHRINA. Thirty-five species,<br />

mould, and turfy peat, in the proportion<br />

<strong>of</strong> two parts <strong>of</strong> the former to one <strong>of</strong><br />

each <strong>of</strong> thclatter ; to which sandstone<br />

Chiefly<br />

trees.<br />

stove evergreen shrubs<br />

Cuttings. Loam, peat,<br />

and<br />

and<br />

or porous bricks, broken to the size <strong>of</strong><br />

large eggs, may be added to the extent<br />

leaf-mould, in equal proportions <strong>of</strong> one-eighth <strong>of</strong> the whole mass. This<br />

E. crista-gain. Coral Tree. Is one mixture will never become solid, on<br />

<strong>of</strong> the most beautiful <strong>of</strong> this genus, and the contrary, it will always be permeils<br />

cultivation in the open air is thus able to both air and moisture, without<br />

detailed<br />

Mr. W.<br />

by<br />

P. Ayres<br />

that excellent<br />

:—<br />

gardener, any risk <strong>of</strong> becoming saturated with the<br />

latter. The plants in the first season<br />

"Cuttings <strong>of</strong> the young wood, taken may be planted eighteen inches apart;<br />

<strong>of</strong>f with a heel when about three inches but in the third year half <strong>of</strong> them may<br />

long, and planted round the edge <strong>of</strong> a be taken out to form a new plantation,<br />

large pot, or singly in small ones, in and in the fifth or sixth year each plant<br />

j<br />

sandy peat, and plunged in a brisk when in flower will acquire an area [ <strong>of</strong><br />

bottom heat, will root in the course <strong>of</strong> sixteen or twenty square feet. When<br />

a few weeks. This is suitable for those large specimens for immediate effect<br />

puttings which are taken from plants in are desired, four or five may be placed<br />

neat, but cuttings from the open air in juxtaposition.<br />

will not bear such treatment. The " The best time to plant them out<br />

j<br />

transition to a close warm frame ap- will be from the last | week in May to<br />

pears too much for them, and they the middle <strong>of</strong> June, as the ground will<br />

become paralyzed ; but if after being then be a little warm, and the plants<br />

planted they are placed in a moderately will sustain no check.<br />

j<br />

warm frame until the cuttings are cica- " Towards the end <strong>of</strong> October the<br />

trized, and then removed to a brisk plants should be cut down, and the<br />

j<br />

bottom heat, they will root with great crown <strong>of</strong> each covered with a box, or<br />

freedom.<br />

flower-pot, filled with dry leaves, the<br />

"After the cuttings are rooted, they whole being spread over with dry peat,<br />

must be repotted into rich light com- leaf-mould, or saw-dust, to the depth <strong>of</strong><br />

post, and encouraged to make robust , a foot, and then turfed over neatly,<br />

growth. As it is indispensable that the The latter will be found advantageous,<br />

plants should become strong before especially if the sides <strong>of</strong> the bed have a<br />

{<br />

they are planted out, they must have at sharpish inclination, as it will throw ; <strong>of</strong>f<br />

least one season's cultivation in pots; much <strong>of</strong> the rain that would j otherwise<br />

the flower-buds must also be removed soak into the mould, and impair its<br />

as soon as they are perceptible, so that protecting properties<br />

|<br />

the whole organizable matter may be<br />

concentrated in the young plant<br />

' In spring, when the covering is<br />

removed, the surface <strong>of</strong> the bed should<br />

' In the spring <strong>of</strong> the second season, be renewed to the depth <strong>of</strong> the roots<br />

the ground may be prepared for the<br />

reception <strong>of</strong> the plants, and as the i)reservation<br />

in winter <strong>of</strong> the roots <strong>of</strong> all<br />

tender plants depends as much upon<br />

the dryness as upon the warmth <strong>of</strong> the<br />

soil, it will be advisable to give them<br />

an elevated but not an exposed situation<br />

; and where the subsoil is not<br />

porous, make it so artificially. Therefore,<br />

where it is necessary, excavate<br />

the natural soil to the depth <strong>of</strong> two<br />

feet, and in the bottom place a layer <strong>of</strong><br />

with the above compost, the whole<br />

being afterwards covered two inches<br />

thick with sandy peat or leaf mould.<br />

This covering should be continued until<br />

the middle <strong>of</strong> June, or later if the<br />

weather requires it. Water during the<br />

growing season may be freely administered<br />

in dry weather, and if liquic^<br />

manure is occasionally given it will add'<br />

to the strength <strong>of</strong> the plants; hut after<br />

they are in bloom the less water that<br />

falls on the bed the better it will be for

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