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Danish Fashion Going Global - Spandet And Partners

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DANISH FASHION GOING GLOBAL 37<br />

13.2. Copenhagen is not the world’s fifth most important fashion hub<br />

The invention of being the world’s fifth most important fashion hub after Paris, Milan,<br />

London, and New York is wrong innovation and will never catapult Denmark into a<br />

fashion culture nation.<br />

The fashion industry promoting merchandise, brands, and concepts that most people<br />

in reality do not need of course requires “hype” and “air” to make the balloon fly; this<br />

includes Copenhagen or Denmark as a fashion brand. However, only “air” as lunch<br />

will leave the <strong>Danish</strong> fashion industry as skinny as one of the supermodels on the<br />

catwalks. Rather than investing most efforts and government funds into “invisible<br />

emperor suits,” let Denmark focus on global marketing of original design of good<br />

quality at commercial prices appealing to most international consumers.<br />

Natalia Rachlin from New York Times explained it well on February 15, 2010:<br />

If It’s Tuesday, This Must Be . . . Copenhagen / Women’s <strong>Fashion</strong> by Natalia Rachlin<br />

For a while there, the Copenhagen fashion scene convinced itself (and attempted to<br />

convince everyone else) that the city would be the fifth fashion capital. This season,<br />

however, was as close as you’re going to get to an all-out admission that, well, it’s<br />

just not going to happen. With a smaller-than-usual show roster and largely lackluster<br />

runway displays, the three-and-a-half-day Copenhagen fashion “week” that wrapped<br />

up on Saturday evening, felt like an unintentional homage to defeat. But not all was<br />

lost—indeed, there were a few gems that made it all worthwhile. Rounding out the<br />

talent pool is the princess, the prince and the pauper of the <strong>Danish</strong> fashion scene:<br />

Stine Goya, Henrik Vibskov and WoodWood. Goya has an Hermès for H&M (if only!)<br />

vibe; Vibskov is high-street meets the circus; WoodWood is utilitarianism with a<br />

sense of humor. All three are excellent at what they do, and they have collectively<br />

dominated the edgy side of <strong>Danish</strong> fashion, which has thereby been summed up as<br />

young, funky, eclectic and accessible.<br />

Now, if only all the commercial hippie-dippy nonsense could be delegated off the<br />

runway and back to the showroom where it belongs, CFW would instantly be more<br />

interesting—albeit tiny, but there’s nothing wrong with that. It would be a chance for<br />

the bright, funky young things to coexist with the darker, more grown-up aesthetic<br />

that seems to be emerging here.<br />

Perhaps, now that Copenhagen has given up its futile pursuit of world fashion<br />

domination, the focus can be put back where it belongs: on nurturing and developing<br />

this handful of emerging designers. Then it’s just a matter of time before a larger<br />

international audience will come knocking. <strong>And</strong> then, who knows, Copenhagen might<br />

just become a mini-fashion capital after all.

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