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law allowed compulsory purchase of land for it, and water could be taken from whatever source;<br />

workers were also bound to the industry by law and were free from arrest during the season when<br />

the refineries were working." says Smith's "A History of Sicily. "<br />

Spain, in 1416, had taken over Sicily and was determined to make it pay. How? With sugar production<br />

and exports to Northern Europe, of course! During the 42 years following the accession of Alfonso<br />

in 1416, "On one occasion Alfonso personally seems to have cornered the market in sugar exports<br />

to Flanders," Smith tells us. So even with a change in leadership in Sicily, sugar exports only grew.<br />

Now the Northern coast cities seem to be regular customers. English recipes demonstrate how<br />

much sugar was flowing North.<br />

England, 15th century. Pears in wine and spices Original recipe from Harleian MS 279. "Potage<br />

Dyvers" Perys en Composte. Take Wyne an Canel, a gret dele of Whyte Sugre, an set it on the<br />

fyre, hete it hote, but let it nowt boyle, an draw it thorwe a straynoure; than take fayre Datys, an<br />

pyke owt the stonys, an leche hem alle thinne, an caste ther-to; thanne take Wardonys, an pare<br />

hem and sethe hem, an leche hem alle thinne, caste ther-to in-to the Syryppe; thanne take a lytil<br />

Sawnderys, and caste ther-to, an sette it on the fyre; an yif thow hast charde quynce, caste ther-to<br />

in the boyling, an loke that it stonde wyl with Sugre, an wyl lyid wyth Canel, an caste Salt ther-to,<br />

an let it boyle; an than caste yt on a treen vessel, lat it kele, and serue forth<br />

If "a gret dele of Whyte Sugre" was used, it can hardly have been THAT rare or expensive. The<br />

fourteenth century manuscript quoted below specifies two pounds sugar! of Original recipe from<br />

"Goud Kokery":<br />

5. Potus ypocras. Take a half lb. of canel tried; of gyngyuer tried, a half lb.; of greynes, iii unce; of<br />

longe peper, iii unce; of clowis, ii unce; of notemugges, ii unce &mp; a half; of carewey, ii unce; of<br />

spikenard, a half unce; of galyngale, ii unce; of sugir, ii lb. Si deficiat sugir, take a potel of honey.<br />

Although the 'Si deficiat sugir, take a potel of honey' is often adduced to indicate sugar shortage, I<br />

would point out that possible substitutions for elements of a recipe were common, and were not<br />

neccesarily related to the scarcity of the items mentioned. (for instance, if you don't happen to<br />

have flour to thicken a chicken sauce, says one recipe, you can use eggs to thicken it instead. This<br />

didn't mean that flour was less common than eggs!)<br />

Other Sugar Producing Sites<br />

American historical groups. Do-it-yourself pioneers in America produced some really bad sugars<br />

in an effort to be self sufficient, but that should not be projected to our thoughts about Medieval<br />

times where industrial production and transport was common. Though some bought the cheaper<br />

loaf and saved money by grinding it themselves, powdered sugar was common, and the quality<br />

was high.<br />

In 1470 AD, there was a "Society for the Refining of Sugars" in Bologna, which even the wealthy<br />

thought worth attending. It was NOT just the industry traders in luxuries, but a large portion of the<br />

wealthy had sugar growing on their estates.<br />

In 1493 AD, Columbus carried sugar cane from the Canaries to Santa Domingo, and by the mid-<br />

1500's it's manufacture had spread over the greater part of Tropical America.<br />

In 1492 Christopher Columbus stopped at the Canary Islands on his famous journey, for rest and<br />

provisions for a few days, but ended up staying a month. When he finally left he was given cuttings<br />

of sugar cane which became the first to reach the New World. But with sugar cane he brought<br />

death and slavery.<br />

Therefore much later Sugar Cane came to be cultivated in the New World, and as a side effect<br />

became multi-sourced particularly due to British Colonial policies (you see how this all links up<br />

now) and influence throughout the geographical coverage of the empire in the mid 1600s to mid<br />

1700s. This is really the key point along the timeline where sugar, outside Asia, became commonly<br />

available and no longer a rare indulgence of the wealthy.<br />

Notably, this was also closely linked to the international slave trade - African slaves became the<br />

dominant plantation workers in North America, partly because they turned out to be naturally<br />

resistant to Yellow Fever and Malaria, and as a result the British imported over 4 million slaves<br />

to the West Indies. At this point (the mid to late 1700s) the Caribbean was the world’s largest<br />

producer of sugar, and due to high death rates anyway on sugar plantations, there were only<br />

400,000 African people left alive in the West Indies by the time slavery ended.<br />

In the 1400 's AD, plantations were extablished in Madeira, the Canary Islands, and St. Thomas.<br />

This greatly boosted supply. The Hospitaller castle of Kolossi, in latin Cyprus was built by Jocques<br />

de Milly in 1454 AD, at the center of a sugar producing estate, and next to a sugar factory. At<br />

Kouklia a pair of refineries had water wheels to crush the cane. Kilns for boiling the liquid and<br />

ceramic molds to crystallize the sugar into loaves/cones. Another factory survives at Episkopi<br />

("Illustrated History of the Crusades"). Sugar producation was wide-spread on Cyprus and Sicily,<br />

and these weren't even considered the best sources of sugar.<br />

In the "Book of the Wares and Usages of Diverse Contries", an Italian writing in Ragusa in 1458 AD,<br />

wrote, "How to know many Wares" where he says that "Rock Candy ought to be white, glistening,<br />

coarse, dry, and clean. Loaf sugar ought to be white, dry, and a well compact paste, and it's powder<br />

ought to be large and granulated." The quality of these marketed, powdered / granulated sugars<br />

seems to have been described as what we can buy currently in our modern markets. "White, dry"<br />

and "clean". The perception that all medieval sugar consisted of burnt black cones is a common<br />

misapprehension brought on by the experience of those of us who have been part of the Early<br />

298 299

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