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4: CASE STUDY 1: THE ITALIAN/SLOVENIAN BORDER Slovenia, the interest in the area around the Casa Rossa/Rožna Dolina crossing much declined. After the crossing policies changed with Slovenia’s entry to the EU and Schengen the traffic that goes through this crossing now pass without any obstacles. What was once a busy place with many travellers passing through is now quiet. Many of the businesses have closed down or moved to more attractive areas. Figure 41. Border crossing at Salcano/Solkan 1 in the 1950s. Picture taken from Italian side with Mount Sabotin/Sabotino in the background. Property of Musei provinciali di Gorizia, Italy. Figure 42: Casa Rossa/Rožna Dolina crossing. Photo: Anna McWilliams 2008. Figure 43: Site visit to San Andrea/Vrtojba 1 during its construction in 1981. Property of Goriški Muzej, Nova Gorica, Slovenia. 101
AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN Many of the buildings at the crossings remain today but their usage has mostly changed. Most appear abandoned while a small number have been converted for domestic or official use. At the former crossing points in the study area the buildings are still standing but are no longer used. At the crossings by Casa Rossa/Rožna Dolina and San Andrea/Vrtojba 1 the border police still have a presence but it is much scaled down and the majority of the time there is no staff to be seen. During my two fieldwork visits to the area I passed the border numerous times and was never stopped. Only on a couple occasions did I actually see any border staff near the border. At the Casa Rossa/Rožna Dolina crossing the cars are still directed through lanes but all road blocks and barriers have been removed. At San Pietro/Šempeter most of the crossing infrastructure has been removed on the Slovenian side and the only traces that remain are marks in the ground from the roof that previously stretched across the road here. The building that was previously used for the border guards here now look like any other building in this domestic neighbourhood. On the Italian side the previous customs building is abandoned and deteriorating. The roof that previously covered the road on the Italian side has also been removed. The smaller buildings that functioned as customs and border police headquarters at the two Solcano/Solkan crossings, Rafut/Pristava and Merna/Miren are still present but there is no longer any activity here. At Rafut/Pristava there are still barriers on the Italian side (painted in the Italian colours) to stop traffic getting through at what is now a pedestrian crossing. At the San Gabrielle/Erjavčeva ulica crossing there is still a high roof over the Italian side customs buildings (Figure 44). At this same crossing only one of the previous three small huts placed in between oncoming and going traffic remain on the Italian side. Traces of the two other huts can still be seen in the ground where the tarmac has been patched together. All barriers have been removed and the signs that instruct people to stop for customs have been replaced with signs about the speed limits within Italy. As the border between what is now Slovenia and Italy is more open, crossing the border has become easier and is also encouraged in places. Many border crossings are now unmanned and vegetation is slowly taking over the structures and tarmacked areas. Shops and amenities such as petrol stations and casinos located near border crossings demonstrate how other actors have moved in to supply a new demand as one actor’s control of the border decrease and other actors now influence the behaviour by the border. 102
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An Archaeology of the Iron Curtain
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An Archaeology of the Iron Curtain
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Contents Acknowledgements 11 CHAPTE
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The end of a journey 212 Sammanfatt
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AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN
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CHAPTER 1 Introduction Standing on
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1: INTRODUCTION carried out of the
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1: INTRODUCTION they may be… It i
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1: INTRODUCTION where the observer
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1: INTRODUCTION former Iron Curtain
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1: INTRODUCTION criticism from othe
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1: INTRODUCTION itioned somewhere i
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1: INTRODUCTION World War II dividi
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CHAPTER 2 A physical metaphor Concr
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2: A PHYSICAL METAPHOR established
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2: A PHYSICAL METAPHOR The changing
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2: A PHYSICAL METAPHOR the events t
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2: A PHYSICAL METAPHOR As time has
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2: A PHYSICAL METAPHOR highly influ
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2: A PHYSICAL METAPHOR popular idea
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5: CASE STUDY 2: THE CZECH/AUSTRIAN
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Figure 77-78: Painting inside the f
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CHAPTER 6 An archaeology of the Iro
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6: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTA
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Figure 102: Fence and Watch Tower a
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Sammanfattning (Summary in Swedish)
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SAMMANFATTNING En fysisk metafor I
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SAMMANFATTNING komst och kunskapsf
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SAMMANFATTNING Fältstudier av läm
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SAMMANFATTNING som försöker ta si
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SAMMANFATTNING mets dilemma”. Han
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Södertörn Doctoral Dissertations
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33. Sofie Bedford, Islamic activism
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67. Anne Kaun, Civic Experiences an
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Stockholm Studies in Archaeology Se
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29. LINDGREN, Christina. 2004. Män
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The Iron Curtain was seen as the di
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