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6: AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN<br />

order or structure. In this way, for example, I could have demonstrated<br />

several ways in which communism and its oppression trickles through the<br />

many layers of people and objects all the way down to the barbed wire still<br />

present in Čižov. Instead I have taken ANT as an inspiration in the way I<br />

am turning, firstly, to the materials themselves and letting them and the<br />

connections between them and the people involved with them guide me<br />

towards an understanding of their whole and to see them as building blocks<br />

that together may, or may not, create a larger network.<br />

Yaneva demonstrate two methodological approaches to material culture<br />

in her case study of an entertainment complex (Yaneva 2013). She does this<br />

through the eyes of the ‘hasty sightseer’ and the ‘slow sightseer’, the first of<br />

which, through hurrying through the ethnographical fieldwork only has<br />

time to gain an impression of the material and reproduce concepts of<br />

society and culture rather than, the second who through a slower<br />

methodology can understand the material through experiencing it (Yaneva<br />

2013:11). She writes: “ANT gives us one more tool, with which to follow the<br />

painstaking ways humans interact with objects and environments, and<br />

shape dynamic contemporary cultures at different scales” (Yaneva 2013:25).<br />

I have already mentioned how the fence and the watchtower in the<br />

village of Čižov demands attention, and they really do. It was images of<br />

these that drew my attention to this location in the first place. When I first<br />

saw these pictures on the internet I thought this tower and the fence<br />

represented the dark past of the Iron Curtain in an acute way. I had that<br />

with me when I arrived here. Yet when I climbed up the watchtower, and<br />

got over my initial dizziness of the distance between me and the ground, I<br />

was taken by the beautiful view across the park and down towards the valley<br />

of the Dyji River. I wondered how much this landscape had changed over<br />

the last few centuries. I wondered if the border guards enjoyed the view<br />

during their shifts up here. Early one morning as I walked along the fence<br />

the sun started pushing through the moody looking clouds and I took<br />

several pictures capturing the dark clouds, the sun slightly against the lens<br />

of my camera and the barbed wire almost glistening in the sun’s rays. At<br />

this moment the fence was almost beautiful (Figure 101).<br />

My preconceptions tell me that I am not allowed to think such a thing at<br />

all. This is a monument that lifts the memory of people killed trying to cross<br />

it, it is a witness of oppression, it is a testament of a divided Europe, a<br />

symbol of the Cold War. But I find that this is not enough. I find that the<br />

material has more to say. The watchtowers were prefabricated in a factory<br />

and transported to the site to be assembled here, the material to these<br />

201

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