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Archaeological Survey of the Old Federal Road in Alabama

Archaeological Survey of the Old Federal Road in Alabama

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To give readers a feel for <strong>the</strong> enthusiasm and affection our guides display for <strong>the</strong>ir particularportion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Old</strong> <strong>Federal</strong> <strong>Road</strong>, and how a ride down <strong>the</strong> road can conjure memories both collective andpersonal, we <strong>in</strong>clude here a summary <strong>of</strong> observations <strong>of</strong>fered us by Annie Crenshaw, Eric Cates, andGerald Johnson <strong>in</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn Butler County on November 17, 2010. Annie, our host who organized <strong>the</strong>day’s explorations, <strong>in</strong>troduced us to <strong>the</strong>se two gentlemen, and <strong>the</strong> five <strong>of</strong> us drove up and down StateHighway 185 that afternoon. All <strong>of</strong> our guides have strong historical and personal ties to <strong>the</strong> county andeach contributed immensely to our survey. Mr. Cates was <strong>the</strong>n 92 years old, born <strong>in</strong> 1918 about 200 yardsfrom where he lives now. We met him at <strong>the</strong> Fort Dale Cemetery where we ga<strong>the</strong>red around <strong>the</strong> grave <strong>of</strong>Thomas Gary, who built a stockade for <strong>the</strong> protection <strong>of</strong> settlers <strong>in</strong> 1818. “I th<strong>in</strong>k he built a fort andcharged people to come <strong>in</strong>,” mused Eric, to which Annie replied, “He was an enterpris<strong>in</strong>g man.” We <strong>the</strong>nheaded north on Highway 185 toward <strong>the</strong> Lowndes County l<strong>in</strong>e.Churches and cemeteries are thick on <strong>the</strong> ground <strong>in</strong> this area. Just beyond a well-preserved,entrenched section <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Old</strong> <strong>Federal</strong> <strong>Road</strong> we passed Oak Grove Baptist Church, built dur<strong>in</strong>gReconstruction <strong>in</strong> 1872, which prompted Eric to recollect “about two miles fur<strong>the</strong>r up … when I was akid <strong>the</strong>re was a Baptist Church <strong>the</strong>re named Indian Creek, Indian Creek Baptist Church. I remember itquite well because my grandmo<strong>the</strong>r was a member <strong>of</strong> that church and I had been to services <strong>the</strong>re when Iwas a kid.” We passed <strong>the</strong> Hartley family cemetery, although <strong>the</strong>ir house no longer stands. “The th<strong>in</strong>g thatconv<strong>in</strong>ced me,” Eric said, “that [Highway] 185 is on <strong>the</strong> site, <strong>the</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>al site, <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Old</strong> <strong>Federal</strong> <strong>Road</strong> isthat a lot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old houses that are no longer <strong>the</strong>re, but were <strong>the</strong>re when I was a kid, were along this road,along this same road. And I know <strong>the</strong>y were built <strong>the</strong>re because it was a road. They were on both sides <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> road.” Annie jo<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>in</strong>. “They were built fac<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> road, on both sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road. And <strong>the</strong>re werehouses, like <strong>the</strong> Pal<strong>in</strong>gs, that were a hundred-fifty years old when me and Eric’s daughter, who playedtoge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong> first grade all <strong>the</strong> way up, when we were little. I was born <strong>the</strong> year <strong>the</strong> Pal<strong>in</strong>gs burned [<strong>in</strong>1953]. There were still old 1820s and 1830s houses all up and down <strong>the</strong> road. I mean you knew it was anold road because <strong>the</strong>re were log cab<strong>in</strong>s and dogtrots all up and down it.” Eric cont<strong>in</strong>ued, “When I was akid, <strong>the</strong>re was several <strong>of</strong> those houses up here that had been occupied for two or three generations, thatwere old houses <strong>the</strong>n. They are gone.”The old roadbed diverges at many po<strong>in</strong>ts through here from <strong>the</strong> modern road. “See, this road[State Highway 185] was orig<strong>in</strong>ally US Highway 31,” Eric said. “It was <strong>the</strong> first hard surface roadthrough this whole area <strong>of</strong> <strong>Alabama</strong>. And <strong>the</strong>y didn’t have too much equipment at that time to, you know,to do big grades. This is a crooked road. The reason it’s so crooked is it follows <strong>the</strong> ridgel<strong>in</strong>e. People didnot have <strong>the</strong> means <strong>of</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g bridges and mak<strong>in</strong>g fills and mak<strong>in</strong>g cuts through hills, so <strong>the</strong>y followed<strong>the</strong> ridgel<strong>in</strong>e.” Now we were amidst old settlements. In rapid succession, Eric po<strong>in</strong>ted out <strong>the</strong> old Gafford245

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