Revue de Presse - Press Review DEUTZ - July 2017

Tyson Stelzer’s Champagne Guide
2016-2017
P(1/3)
AUSTRALIA
[Montage]
Deutz is still setting a cracking pace. The main press
house in Aÿ was razed in 2010 and two new layers of
cellars dug underneath. A completely new press house
was erected just in time for vintage 2011, with new
four-and-eight-tonne presses, a new bottling line and
increased cellar capacity from 8 million to 11,5 million
bottles, and Deutz is now bottling its annual
production target of 2,5 million bottles and it has
secured the grape supply to sustain it.
Owned by Louis Roederer, the house lays claims to just
42 of the total 200 hectares from which it sources fruit,
all in grand and premier cru villages in the Marne,
Chardonnay and pinot noir are the focus for Deutz,
with meunier comprising just 5% of its fruit. Most of
the supply increase in recent years has come from
purchased fruit. « We are looking for vineyards to buy,
but the availability of good vineyards is not high »
explains president Fabrice Rosset, the powerhouse
behing Deutz for almost 20 years. To reward quality
growers are paid based not only on the standard of
their terroir, but the quality of grapes delivered.
Growers are hearing of Deutz’s reputation and calling
the company to offer their grapes. « This is the highest
compliment we could be paid ! » exclaims Rosset.
Can the house continue to maintain quality while
following such a steep trajectory of growth ? « It is
crucial that we maintain the same quality of supplies »
chef de cave Michel Davesne emphasizes. The
intention is to maintain the same suppliers, continuing
to source from within 35 kilometres of Aÿ and using
only the first pressings. He is confident the investments
in the new winery and cellars will only aid the pursuit
of quality.
Assuming the house can maintain reliable supply
channels, Deutz will be well equipped to continue to
achieve its target. Recently modernised
disgorgement and warehousing facilities are already
in operation, and 8 million bottles wait in
anticipation in three kilometres of cellars extending
into the hill, up to 65 metres deep beneath the
vineyard behind Aÿ.
With sustainable agriculture a priority, Deutz is
trialling organics and even biodynamics in the plot
immediately above the winery. Chemical pesticides
have been abandoned, and grasses cultivated in the
mid-rows of some plots to avoid the use of herbicids
and reduce yields to slightly below the average.
Even in its young vins clairs, the clean, crisp, fresh,
pristine focus of the house is abundantly clear.
Deutz preserves the purity of its fruit through
fermentation plot by plot in 350 stainless steel tanks
(no barrels), temperature controlled to 16-17°C.
Malolactic fermentation is encouraged
systematically. Non-vintage rested in the cellar for a
further six months post-disgorgement. Dosages of
around 9g/L are well balanced to the graceful style
of the house.
« The key to Deutz is elegance . » expounds Rosset,
« The Deutz style is made on refinement and
harmony – this is the quintessence of champagne. »
Then he checks himself and grins warmly « I am
exagerating ! »
But he’s right. In its classic, eloquently labelled
bottles, Deutz has upheld its air of consistently
refreshing pure lemon sunshine.
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