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Tyson Stelzer’s Champagne Gui<strong>de</strong><br />
2016-<strong>2017</strong><br />
P(2/3)<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
[Montage]<br />
97<br />
Amour <strong>de</strong> Deutz rosé 2006<br />
A new king has ascen<strong>de</strong>d in the great kingdom of Deutz rosé, a brand new release, replacing William Deutz Rosé with an<br />
intentionally more elegant style and inadvertently offering a profound insight into the motivation of this house and its<br />
presi<strong>de</strong>nt. A few weeks before I visited in late 2014, Fabrice Rosset ma<strong>de</strong> the tough and costly <strong>de</strong>cision never to release the<br />
entire 14,768 bottle production of amour <strong>de</strong> Deutz rosé 2005. He poured me an exclusive tasting of that never-to-be-released<br />
cuvée (94 points). Goodness, many reputable houses would release (and have) lesser prestige cuvées. I have long<br />
respected Deutz, and at that moment it won an all-new respect.<br />
It takes all the wizardry and resources of Deutz to create a new rosé of such thrilling, towering magnificence. It is at once<br />
ethereal in its elegance, precise in its <strong>de</strong>finition and fairy light on its feet, yet there is grand presence and <strong>de</strong>pth of fruit power<br />
driving it long and full breathtakingly graceful elegance elevates it to another spiritual plane. Exquisite purity of red cherries,<br />
wild strawberries, rose hip, pink pepper and pomegranate <strong>de</strong>fine an impeccably crafted shape of exuberant yet immaculate<br />
refinement, and mesmerizing persistence. A triumph, and an instant addition to Champagne's top rosé tier - and who else<br />
can claim that with a new cuvée ?<br />
William Deutz 2002<br />
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96<br />
There is both a <strong>de</strong>pth and a breadth to 2002, encapsulated in an incredible display of the freshness of Deutz, amplified by the intensity if<br />
pinot noir, elevated and energized by ultra-fine, chalk-rich minerality and set resolutely in a mature mould. This is a wine of contrasts and<br />
contradictions, but, profoundly, it maintains seamless persistence and breathtaking lightness. Youthful endurance is <strong>de</strong>clared in vibrant<br />
lemon zest and young summer-fruit freshness, while the grand maturity of a dozen years in the cellar is articulated quietly in a <strong>de</strong>pth of<br />
brioche, gingernut biscuits, vanilla nougat, toast and honey. Prominent, silky chalk structure is the highlight of a mesmerizing finish. It's<br />
ready to drink now, and anytime in the next <strong>de</strong>ca<strong>de</strong>.<br />
Deutz Brut Millésimé 2008<br />
Only in the great 2008 vintage can supermo<strong>de</strong>l curves, ballerina daintiness, gymnastic muscle and Olympian energy all<br />
coexist in one <strong>de</strong>sperately precise body. Fairy-footed grace of rose petal and lemon blossom fragrance find a breathtaking<br />
tension with exceptional fruit <strong>de</strong>pth, epic persistence and breathtakingly chalk-fine, frothing salt minerality. Another thrilling<br />
performance from the most enduring vintage since 1996.<br />
Deutz Blanc <strong>de</strong> Blancs 2008<br />
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The sublime 2008 season plays precisely to Deutz's brief of precision and minrality. Embed<strong>de</strong>d <strong>de</strong>eply in the two most confi<strong>de</strong>nt<br />
chardonnay grand crus, this is a cuvée that encapsulates the ultra-elegance and coiled-up power and intensity that <strong>de</strong>fine this vintage. Its<br />
chalk minerality is breathtaking, surging and frothing with the seaspray of its terroirs. Freshness shines as pure and stark as high-noon<br />
daylight in lemon, crunchy pear and yellow mirabelle plum, with all the accumulated knowledge of seven years of age proclaimed in fresh<br />
almonds, brioche and nougat. It's at once energetic and tense, yet intricately balanced and gentle, concluding in a crescendo of<br />
astonishing persistence. Ready to go now, it will <strong>de</strong>epen with unrelenting resolve for <strong>de</strong>ca<strong>de</strong>s.<br />
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Deutz Brut Rosé Millésimé 2009<br />
I was completely besotted when Deutz's ultra-sensual 2008 Rosé walked onto the scene, and I never expected to fall for the<br />
2009 in quite the same way but, gosh it's silky, long-legged and downright gorgeous. This is grace in a salmon-crimson silk<br />
ballgown; a ravishing celebration of pinot noir in all its red cherry and strawberry succulence, trailing a smooth acid train and<br />
friendly chalk mineral texture. There's a seamlessness to this vintage that beckons you to dance all night, albeit without the<br />
fast moves and stiletto tension of 2008;<br />
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Deutz Brut Millésimé 2007<br />
A very impressive vintage, with a pinot noir lead reflected in a full straw hue and magnificent <strong>de</strong>pth of enticing yellow mirabelle plums<br />
and rich figs. Its maturity is <strong>de</strong>clared in a panoply of burnt butter, toast, honey, brioche, butterscotch and mixed spice, drawn out<br />
effortlessly by lively acidity, a creamy bead and fine chalk mineral structure.<br />
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