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Tyson Stelzer’s Champagne Gui<strong>de</strong><br />
2016-<strong>2017</strong><br />
P(3/3)<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
[Montage]<br />
95<br />
Deutz Blanc <strong>de</strong> Blancs 2007<br />
One of the first and most memorable 2007s that I ever tasted, from the day of its release this has been a wine of <strong>de</strong>licacy juxtaposed with<br />
power. Two years on, its focus and tension are unwavering, sustained by excellent, fine chalk mineral <strong>de</strong>finition. Notes of struck-flint<br />
reduction waft over a precise palate of white pepper, crisp pear, crunchy gol<strong>de</strong>n <strong>de</strong>licious apple and subtle; simmering mixed spice.<br />
94<br />
Deutz Brut Classic<br />
Brut Classic is the barometer of Deutz, representing 80% of the volume of the house, and the house gives it first priority. But<br />
if any cracks <strong>de</strong>velop in the wake of increasing production, they will surely appear here, and certainly in a season as shaky<br />
as 2010. To the contrary, quite remarkably, this is as good as I have seen this refreshing apéritif. It presents an angaging<br />
contrast between the racy tension of lemon and grapefruit, the presence and volume of red apple, pear and white peach, and<br />
the elegant complexity of bottle age nuances of nougat, anise, brioche and mixed spice. the vivacity and subtlety that <strong>de</strong>fine<br />
the signature of Deutz are upheld within a style of cream bread, well-integrated dosage and expressive, long-lingering chalk<br />
mineral texture.<br />
Deutz Brut Rosé<br />
94<br />
The pure, fresh style of Deutz is perfectly suited to elegant and restrained rosé, and the house is unusual in producing the style at three<br />
different levels. Fabrice Rosset admits the challenge is to maintain a consistent style every year. "In vintages like 2001 and 2011, the<br />
climatic conditions ma<strong>de</strong> it a real challenge to uphold the consistency of our non-vintage wines." It leaves its stamp here in a dry, dusty<br />
mouthfeel and notes of temarillo. nonetheless, some subtle red cherry, pomegranate and pink pepper do manage to poke through amidst<br />
a creamy bead, good acid line, well-integrated dosage and lingering persistence. The 2010 base vintage is much more representative of a<br />
house accomplished in crafting pristine rosé right from its entry cuvée. It's fine and elegant, with pristine red cherryand rose petal lift,<br />
excellent integration of finely structured acidity, subtle dosage and refined, soft chalk mineral structure.<br />
94<br />
94<br />
93<br />
Deutz Brut Millésimé 2006<br />
Current for at least four years now, this vintage is every bit as engaging as it was on day one. Refined and effortless, it<br />
sustains an excellent core of primary citrus zest, slowly evolving into soft peach, toast and honey, drawn out through a long,<br />
even finish.<br />
William Deutz 1999<br />
One of the rare cuvées to appear in all three editions of The Champagne Gui<strong>de</strong> to date, and here it is for one final showing. It peaked two<br />
years ago, and is now coming towards the end of its prime, complex, full and long with an impressive core of peach fruit and citrus zest<br />
becoming toasty, honeyed, spicy and buttery. Still great, but eclipsed in every way by the 2002.<br />
Amour <strong>de</strong> Deutz 2005<br />
I admire Fabrice Rosset for many reasons, not least his brutal honesty : "2005 is not my cup of tea, a vintage characterised<br />
by a vegetal character." This cuvée is a triumph of this difficult season and it's been evolving into itself confi<strong>de</strong>ntly since its<br />
release. True to the style of the house, there is a zesty vibrancy; an energetic freshness and an effortless grace here that's<br />
rarely expressed by this vintage. Crunchy pear, apple and grapefruit are evolving into nougat, vanilla custard, toast and<br />
spice. It conclu<strong>de</strong>s in a dry, brittle, almond skin-like phenolic texture, characteristic of 2005, yet diminishing with time postdisgorgement,<br />
thanks to a creamy body, expressive chalk mineral texture, substance, complexity and succulence that go<br />
some way towards softening and elongating the finish.<br />
59