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accordance with the Concrete Agreement. Researchers and governments

can be considered as complementary actors and

branch organisations as supporting actors.

In the clothing case, a clear distinction exists between international,

big fashion labels producing fast fashion and the innovative

start-ups and scale-ups aiming for slow circular fashion. Innovative

fashion brands act as third party. For as long as the big labels do

not include circular strategies, these labels remain the dominant

prime actor. The slow fashion movement is gradually growing

but is not yet strong enough to become a bigger market player.

Members of this movement can be seen as prime niche actors that

together with innovative fashion brands aim ultimately to overrule

the mainstream market. However, if the stalemate continues,

their niche initiatives will not lead to scaling up and surely not

to mainstreaming. At that point, the national government has to

implement more stringent policy instruments discouraging the big

fast fashion labels from continuing on their current path. When that

happens government switches from being a complementary actor

to prime actor. Other complementary actors are local governments,

consumers’ organisations, business customers, recyclers and

researchers. Individual consumers serve as supportive actors.

In the regional circular economy programme, similar patterns were

observed. In the first phase of drafting the overall programme,

for example, prime actors consisted of the local government,

members of the Amsterdam Economic Board and key business

partners. Because the programme should be complementary to

what local governments do themselves, it was important for the

Board to get formal approval from these prime actors. In the phases

of building and scaling up circular initiatives, relevant actors for

each particular initiative were identified.

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