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4.3 Clothing

The clothing sector is much more diverse than that of mattresses

or concrete. The fashion industry consists of many different

brands of various sizes, but the big fast fashion brands are clearly

dominant. These fast fashion companies largely differ from the

slow fashion movement that has been popping up locally. Brands

operating internationally are in a very competitive business and

thus much focused on price, while the slow fashion companies

are usually small and experiment with new concepts higher on the

circularity ladder. The latter initiatives are supported regionally by

municipalities and environmentally conscious consumers. A big

challenge is whether the fashion brands can become sensitised to

these new concepts and move away from the linear to a circular

economy. Can the gap between fast and slow fashion be bridged by

innovative brands that already experiment with circular concepts

or by mainstream brands that seek new market opportunities?

In the Netherlands, the fast fashion clothing industry is under attack

for bad environmental practices at home and abroad, particularly in

developing countries. Urgency to restructure the clothing industry

has been expressed by governments, consumers and slow fashion

companies. Notably since 2010, several parties have been working

on smaller and bigger circular clothing initiatives, some of which I

was involved in as a transition broker.

The negative environmental consequences of the clothing sector’s

use of raw materials, water, energy and chemicals are clearly

visible. Seeking lower costs, production is often outsourced to

developing countries, were environmental regulations are often

less strict. Worldwide, the clothing industry is responsible for

about 10% of total CO 2

emissions. Moreover, due to how clothing is

produced, water shortages and pollution have created enormous

environmental, economic and social problems. For example, to

produce one T-shirt, about 2,500 litres of water is used; for one

pair of jeans it is 7,000 litres. Serious water pollution is caused by

the dyeing process and the use of plastics, particularly polyester,

which is used in about 60% of clothing. When washing our

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