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clothing, an annual 500,000 tons of microfibers ends up in oceans

worldwide, which is an equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

Finally, the huge increase in clothing production and consumption

and its decreasing reuse lead to a growing waste mountain.

About 85% of all clothing we buy is discarded annually. In the

Netherlands, 305.1 kilotons of clothing and other textiles, such as

towels and sheets, get discarded; in 2018, 44.6% was collected

separately via thrift stores and textile collection containers. The

rest is usually incinerated. The wearable share of these separately

collected textiles finds its way to the second-hand market (about

53%); the non-wearable share gets recycled (33%) or ends up in the

waste incinerator (about 14%). With some exceptions, the market

is not yet able to turn non-wearable textile into a viable circular

business case. Mounting societal pressure to improve the clothing

industry’s environmental and social performance has compelled

a variety of initiatives both in the Netherlands and internationally.

The Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile in an

International Context

In mid-2016, several dozen organisations signed the Dutch

Agreement on Sustainable Garments and Textile. 31 This Agreement

addresses the labour conditions and environmental impacts of

the clothing industry in more than 5,800 production locations,

many of which are in developing countries. Its aim is to promote

international responsible business conduct in the textile and

clothing supply chain.

For the implementation of the Agreement, companies, trade associations,

trade unions, NGOs and governments work together

under the leadership of an independent chair. The Social and

Economic Council of the Netherlands serves as the secretariat,

gives advice and assesses the companies annually. It checks

whether plans of action are in accordance with OECD guidelines

for multinational enterprises and the UN Guiding Principles for

31 Multi-stakeholder group, Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garment and

Textile, Social and Economic Council, The Hague, June 2016.

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