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YalTa: CriMea's PreMiere resorT

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Фото / Photo: dreamstime.com<br />

The Uspensky Cathedral, belltower and other<br />

buildings of the Pochayivska Lavra stand atop a hill in<br />

Ukraine’s western Ternopil region, an area rich in history and<br />

long a crossroads for many cultures. A feeling found perhaps<br />

only in Pochayiv is that of the mystery which emanates from<br />

buildings erected to pay devotion to a higher power. A clerical<br />

legend says that St. Mary, the Mother of God, once revealed<br />

herself on Pochayiv Hill in the 13th century and left her right<br />

footprint in the moist soil, giving rise to a spring in that very<br />

place. Each year thousands make the pilgrimage to Pochayiv,<br />

believing the Lavra’s divine waters can soothe and heal afflictions<br />

of the body and mind.<br />

The approaches to the town of Pochayiv are flanked by endless<br />

green fields in summer or frozen, snow-clad plains in winter.<br />

The sacred hill and golden domes of the Lavra mark the spiritual<br />

heart of the local people and give a glimpse of a life lived in long<br />

past. For centuries the history of this unique Orthodox shrine<br />

has been recorded and its symbolism revered through prayer and<br />

noble Christian sacrifice.<br />

Поднявшись на вершину холма, где расположилась лавра,<br />

ощущаешь близость неба! На Тернопольщине, в Западной<br />

Украине, немало возвышенностей и строений<br />

разных веков, связанных с мирскими и церковными реалиями.<br />

Почему же возникает ощущение особого величия этого места?<br />

Церковное предание гласит, что на Почаевской горе в ХШ веке<br />

явилась Божья Матерь и оставила на влажной земле отпечаток<br />

своей правой стопы. На этом месте тут же забил святой источник,<br />

исцеливший тысячи больных людей.<br />

При подъезде к Почаеву меж бескрайних зеленых полей или<br />

зимой среди стылой равнины взору вдруг открывается Святая<br />

гора с золочеными куполами, словно мираж легендарного<br />

града Китежа. Здесь зримо ощущается, как началась и продолжает<br />

укрепляться в молитвах и наяву многовековая захватывающая<br />

история православного святого места.<br />

Согласно легенде, около 1240 года в скитах и пещерах Святой<br />

горы обосновались иноки Киево-Печерской лавры, которые вынуждены<br />

были искать здесь убежище от татарского нашествия.<br />

Выбрать пристанищем именно это место помогло знамение.<br />

Пресвятая Богородица в огненном столпе внезапно предстала<br />

на вершине горы перед двумя иноками и пастухом по имени<br />

Иосиф и оставила на земле свой видимый и по сию пору след.<br />

Сейчас на этом месте возвышается величественный Успенский<br />

собор, построенный в ХVIII веке. В его центре в раке, подобной<br />

алтарю, – мироточащий след святой стопы. На алтарной<br />

стене – изображение Матери Божией в огненном столпе. Святой<br />

источник под ажурным куполом находится вне пределов<br />

храма. К нему никогда не редеет поток верующих и туристов.<br />

Иконостас Успенского собора выполнен академиком Нестеровым.<br />

В нем тридцать две иконы, написанные лучшими<br />

российскими живописцами: Лавровым, Горбуновым и Васи-<br />

premier<br />

landmark<br />

38<br />

According to legend a group of monks from the Kyiv Pecherska<br />

Lavra came to Pochayiv to settle the area in 1240 following the<br />

Mongol invasion of Kyiv. St. Mary suddenly appeared atop the hill<br />

to two monks and a local peasant named Josef, and so it was on<br />

this land that the Pochayivska Lavra churches now stand.<br />

Today the Assumption Cathedral of the 18th century anchors the<br />

Lavra grounds, and inside is the sacred footprint, surrounded by<br />

an artist’s rendering of the holy fire that emanated from St. Mary<br />

when she appeared before the monks. The sacred spring is now<br />

covered by a beautiful cupola and is a popular site for many.<br />

The altar of the Assumption Cathedral, made by the Russian<br />

academician Nesterov, includes thirty-two icons painted by<br />

skilled Russian painters Lavrov, Gorbunov and Vasiliev. Russian<br />

Tsars Nicholas I and Alexander II used to visit and pray at this<br />

beautiful cathedral, kneeling before the famous icons.<br />

The icon of St. Mary was painted in ancient Constantinople (today’s<br />

Istanbul) and later brought to what is now Ternopil region by the<br />

Greek bishop Neophyte in 1559. As the bishop travelled around the<br />

area he was welcomed to stay for a night at the home of a devout<br />

noble woman named Anna Goiska, famous for her charitable<br />

works and support for travellers. Deeply impressed with Goiska’s<br />

strong Christian beliefs and by her family’s tragedy (Goiska’s brother<br />

was born blind), Neophyte decided to leave his ancient icon<br />

with Anna. As legend goes her payers before the icon produced<br />

a miracle, as her brother eventually regained his sight. The family<br />

decided that such a miraculous icon must belong to all people, so<br />

they donated it to the monks. Goiska herself did considerable work<br />

to facilitate the construction of the monastery and also donated<br />

vast plots of land to the monastery in 1597. By the end of the 16th<br />

century, the Lavra took on a new look, with believers the world<br />

over coming to worship before this miraculous icon also.<br />

Throughout history there has been but one attempt to steal the<br />

icon of Pochayiv, and not only was the icon returned, but its<br />

thieves also punished. In 1623 a group of armed servants of Ferlei,<br />

a reckless relation of the noble Goiskas, stole the miraculous<br />

icon from the monastery and took it to his mansion. There he<br />

and his wife gathered a large audience of locals to view and mock<br />

the Pochayiv icon. But upon viewing it, Ferlei’s wife took ill and<br />

was instantly paralysed. Ferlei nearly went out of his mind with<br />

38<br />

Summer ‘10

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