White Spaces Innovation in Sweden - Innovation policy for ... - Vinnova

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WHITE SPACES INNOVATION IN SWEDENpharmaceuticals competitor and STS 4, the Swedish functional food company that successfullycommercialised ProViva. Hence, distant, relational networking brought innovativeknowledge recombination opportunity to a specific agro-food firm operating ingeographical proximity to the biopharmaceutical knowledge source.Figure 4.5 Innovation Biography Pro VivaCo-evolutionary Transition Model: Niche>Regime>Landscape forHuman Insulin & Functional Food (Source: After Geels, 2006)Polymerase Chain ReactionSTS 1CHIRONSTS 2GENENTECHCompeting Human InsulinDominant Insulin DesignNOVOSTS3NOVODIABETESSTS 4ProVivaProbiotic DrinksSource: Centre for Advanced StudiesDiesel Distressed JeansPunk fashion in the UK can be traced to the ripped jeans, torn t-shirts, spiky haircuts,and worn and torn leather jackets sported by members of the Sex Pistols. When theyreleased Anarchy in the UK in 1976, The Sex Pistols were dressed by Malcolm McLaren,their manager, whose wife Vivienne Westwood owned a clothes store called „Let ItRock‟ in the Kings Road, Chelsea area of London. These styles can be traced back furtherto New York artists at the Andy Warhol Factory or bands such as the Velvet Underground,Patti Smith Group, Ramones or New York Dolls. Until the turn of the denimwheel towards skinny and/or elaborately embroidered jeans in 2010, the dominant jeansfashion 2000-2009 was for a seriously „distressed‟ aesthetic. To observe the process bywhich the distressed look was achieved was an exercise in observing „creative destruction‟in action (Cooke et al, 2007, Chapter 4). This involved sourcing indigo denimjeans (and jackets), then exposing them to a multi-stage division of labour to „distress‟them. This might begin with special enzyme-tolerant coatings being applied to the fa-94
WHITE SPACES INNOVATION IN SWEDENbric, or in other cases immediate application of high-pressure powdered glass spraying,to „wear‟ and „age‟ the appearance of the cloth. After this, hand sanding further distressedthe fabric at strategic points. Then grafitti were pressure- bonded into the fabric,after which rips were strategically made to prominent parts of the product. The finalproduction stage involved the rips and tears of the distressed garments being elaboratelysewn up. The fashion element in this value-adding innovative product and process wasintentional and design-intensive. The pioneer of this kind of distressing was innovatorRenzo Rosso‟s anti-haute couture firm Diesel.Figure 4.6 Innovation Biography for Distressed JeansCo-evolutionary Transition Model: Art Niche>Punk Regime> DesignerLandscape for Ripped Jeans (Source: After Geels, 2006)ANDYWARHOLSTS 1USA1974RAMONESF 1972 Ripped Jeans, John Cale,A Velvet UndergroundCTORYSource: Centre for Advanced Studies2001 Diesel Dominant DesignThe Diesel brand emerged in 1978 in northern Italy, and is today an innovative internationaldesign company, manufacturing jeans and casual clothing as well as accessories.It is present in over 80 countries with 10,000 points of sale and some fifty company-ownedstores. When Rosso founded the company in 1978, he intended for it to be astyle leader, a risk-taking firm with a clear and unambiguous identity. He hired designersinternationally – for example chief designer Wilbert Das from the Netherlands andhis 2010 replacement Bruno Collin from France – who were innovators and outsiderswho rejected the predominant trend-following typical of the fashion industry. Thismeant evolving a more dynamic and imaginative line of clothing than was availableSTSUKVIVIENNEWESTWOODSTS 3N. Italy95
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