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The Three Goat Story | 137<br />

three or four languages.) We smiled, we told jokes (which lost something in<br />

translation), we listened: hope against hope. We were exploring together the<br />

contours of the life of discovery.<br />

* * *<br />

The line outside the camps’ registration tent stretched as far as the eye<br />

could see—individuals and families arriving from their war-torn country,<br />

hungry, thirsty, exhausted, sometimes sick, often scared. Children sat on<br />

their mother’s laps, waiting to be vaccinated, to have their eyes swabbed<br />

with medicine. And then another line into a building, where there was<br />

paperwork to be filled out and questions to answer. Religion. Nationality.<br />

Languages. What are your main needs? What did you encounter along the<br />

way? What made you flee your country? Please tick as appropriate:<br />

� Lack of Food<br />

� General Insecurity<br />

� Family Members Killed<br />

� Financial Difficulties<br />

� Lack of Education<br />

� Loss of Employment<br />

Other (specify)____________________________<br />

Other reasons included membership in a militia. These men were interviewed<br />

separately from the rest of the population. Some have a lot of blood<br />

on their hands, said a relief worker—which put into perspective the logistical<br />

difficulties that we faced in conducting writing workshops.<br />

First we needed permission from the UNHCR to work in the camps,<br />

fly on its planes, stay in its compound, and use its security detail. Then we<br />

had to gauge the risk of working in a volatile environment, with inadequate<br />

communications and a lack of supplies—books, paper, pencils—that<br />

belonged to an overall picture of dearth: the camps were short forty thousand<br />

latrines, and there were not enough doctors, medical facilities, medicine,<br />

schools, or teachers, to say nothing of clean water. No wonder the<br />

humanitarians looked harried at the end of the day.<br />

That night in the bar at the compound, I fell into conversation with the<br />

press officer, who told me stories about snakes: how a refugee working in<br />

the kitchen had killed a red spitting cobra and hung it outside the mess hall

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