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The Highlanders of Scotland - Clan Strachan Society

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148 THE HIGHLANDERS [parti<br />

pretending he was gone beyond seas." Martin likewise says,<br />

that it was worn by persons <strong>of</strong> distinction ; and other writers<br />

contrast it with the dress <strong>of</strong> the common people.<br />

<strong>The</strong> dress <strong>of</strong> the common people was the second<br />

ortheVi^ei!*^ variety in the form <strong>of</strong> the Highland dress.<br />

John Major points out the distinction most clearly.<br />

After describing the dress <strong>of</strong> the gentry as given above, he adds,<br />

" In panno lineo multipliciter intersuto et cocreato aut picato, cum<br />

cervinae pellis coopertura vulgus sylvestrium Scotorum corpus<br />

tectum habens in praelium prosilit."^ It appears, therefore, to<br />

have consisted <strong>of</strong> the shirt, painted instead <strong>of</strong> being stained<br />

with saffron, and sewed in the manner <strong>of</strong> the modern kilt, while<br />

above it they wore a deerskin jacket ; they likewise wore the<br />

plaid, which the gentry belted about the body, over the<br />

shoulders, like the modern shoulder plaid. Taylor, the water<br />

poet, describes this dress very minutely in 1618—"And in<br />

former times were those people which were called Red-shanks.<br />

<strong>The</strong>ir habite is shooes with but one sole a-piece ; stockings<br />

(which they call short hose) made <strong>of</strong> a warme stuff <strong>of</strong> divers<br />

colours, which they call tartane. As for breeches, many <strong>of</strong><br />

them, nor their forefathers, never wore any, but a jerkin <strong>of</strong><br />

the same stuffe that their hose is <strong>of</strong>, their garters being bands<br />

or wreaths <strong>of</strong> hay or straw, with a plaid about their shoulders,<br />

which is a mantle <strong>of</strong> divers colours, much finer or lighter stuffe<br />

than their hose, with blue flat caps on their heads, a hand-<br />

kerchiefe knit with two knots about their necke, and thus are<br />

they attyred." <strong>The</strong>re is, however, as old an attestation for the<br />

use <strong>of</strong> this dress as for the other ; for while the Sagas describe<br />

the king <strong>of</strong> Norway and his courtiers wearing the dress <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Highland gentry in the eleventh century, they describe some<br />

<strong>of</strong> his meaner followers attired in that <strong>of</strong> the common people<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Highlands.<br />

"<br />

Sigurd had on," say they, " a red skarlet<br />

"<br />

here the tunic and vest<br />

tunic, and had a blue vest above it ;<br />

answer exactly to the shirt and jacket <strong>of</strong> the common people.<br />

been much derided<br />

Sigurd is described by the Saga as having<br />

by the Norwegians for his extraordinary dress. He is accused<br />

' " <strong>The</strong> common people <strong>of</strong> the Higli- ment, manifoldly sewed, and painted<br />

land Scots rush into battle liaving or daubed with pitch, with a covering<br />

their body clothed with a linen gar- <strong>of</strong> deer-skin."

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