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With the Serbs in Macedonia

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190 WITH THE SERBS IN MACEDONIA<br />

equivalent of ''CAT cat " was a sight worth<br />

go<strong>in</strong>g many miles to see.<br />

Altoge<strong>the</strong>r our impression of <strong>the</strong> Moslems <strong>in</strong><br />

not half bad/'<br />

<strong>Macedonia</strong> was that <strong>the</strong>y were ''<br />

Man and woman, <strong>in</strong> spite of <strong>the</strong> Turks' worldwide<br />

reputation for laz<strong>in</strong>ess, <strong>the</strong>y led fairly<br />

<strong>in</strong>dustrious lives ; though, no doubt, <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

donkeys worked hardest of all. They were<br />

cleaner on <strong>the</strong> whole than <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r Mace-<br />

donians, and from one th<strong>in</strong>g and ano<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

<strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> fact that one often saw a Turkish<br />

woman rid<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> ubiquitous donkey while her<br />

lord and master walked, we came to <strong>the</strong> conclusion<br />

that <strong>the</strong>y treated <strong>the</strong>ir womenfolk<br />

better, <strong>in</strong> spite of <strong>the</strong> veils. But how <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

did smell !<br />

villages<br />

They were far less extortionate for grapes,<br />

tomatoes, and melons than <strong>the</strong> Greeks, and<br />

though technically enemies <strong>the</strong>y seldom appeared<br />

to bear us any ill-will. Possibly this<br />

may have been Turkish cunn<strong>in</strong>g, but <strong>the</strong>y were<br />

certa<strong>in</strong>ly ready to go out of <strong>the</strong>ir way<br />

at all<br />

times to assist us.<br />

To be a Turkish priest <strong>in</strong> <strong>Macedonia</strong> seems to<br />

be even less profitable than to be a curate of <strong>the</strong><br />

Church of England, though it is a very popular<br />

job. The recognized rate of pay <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> villages<br />

was thirty-five kilos of maize from each house<br />

per year if <strong>the</strong>re were children, and half that<br />

J

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