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With the Serbs in Macedonia

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THE SIMPLE LIFE 213<br />

just as those young women were game to go <strong>in</strong><br />

and br<strong>in</strong>g out <strong>the</strong> sick and wounded.<br />

Shells daily fell faster and faster. Monastir<br />

became a city of cellar-dwellers. Gas-shells,<br />

tear-shells, <strong>in</strong>cendiary shells and shrapnel were<br />

all poured <strong>in</strong> at any odd hour of <strong>the</strong> day or<br />

night, culm<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> a grand effort on <strong>the</strong> day<br />

of <strong>the</strong> Salonica conflagration, when over four<br />

hundred houses were set on fire.<br />

Before leav<strong>in</strong>g Monastir it may be well to<br />

refer to a visit paid to <strong>the</strong> city <strong>in</strong> June, 1918.<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>Macedonia</strong> <strong>in</strong> war-time is of<br />

Transport<br />

necessity a ra<strong>the</strong>r happy-go-lucky bus<strong>in</strong>ess for<br />

passengers. The ord<strong>in</strong>ary traveller has to chance<br />

his or her arm on gett<strong>in</strong>g a lift on someth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

desired. That was how it came<br />

go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> way<br />

about that we were asked to take with us an<br />

English girl who wanted to get back to <strong>the</strong><br />

Serbian Relief Hospital.<br />

Arrived at <strong>the</strong> once beautiful and now shame-<br />

fully dilapidated Queen of <strong>Macedonia</strong>n cities,<br />

our passenger hospitably <strong>in</strong>vited us to tea. We<br />

accepted, and so came to someth<strong>in</strong>g that we<br />

shall never forget.<br />

Tea was <strong>in</strong> a cellar— most of <strong>the</strong>se Balkan<br />

houses have big cellars for coolness and for <strong>the</strong><br />

storage of w<strong>in</strong>e and <strong>the</strong> w<strong>in</strong>ter supply of maize<br />

— of a big build<strong>in</strong>g badly damaged by shell-fire.<br />

Half a dozen women sat down to it— bread and

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