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With the Serbs in Macedonia

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CHAPTER II<br />

A CALAMITOUS CITY<br />

Salonica — that two-thousand-year-old city<br />

whose f<strong>in</strong>ger had been <strong>in</strong> so many historical<br />

pies —how we stared as our ship slowly warped<br />

her way to <strong>the</strong> quay !<br />

It took one's breath away right from <strong>the</strong> start.<br />

What with <strong>the</strong> English, French, Russians, <strong>Serbs</strong>,<br />

and Italians and its own population of Greeks,<br />

Turks, Spanish-Jews, and various brands of<br />

<strong>Macedonia</strong>ns, stale though <strong>the</strong> image is, Salonica<br />

was remarkably like an old-fashioned kaleido-<br />

scope,<br />

of which most of <strong>the</strong> little bits of<br />

coloured glass were very faded and dirty.<br />

Soldiers black, brown, and white, Ali Baba,<br />

with many, many more than forty thieves,<br />

Cassim and his donkey (poor beast), Fatima,<br />

Haroun al Raschid, and Shylock, <strong>the</strong>y were aU<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se malodorous, crowded streets. And <strong>the</strong><br />

women !<br />

Women<br />

of all k<strong>in</strong>ds—<br />

fat, slim,<br />

bundles of<br />

veiled, and unveiled ; shapeless<br />

rags and dirt ; elegantly gowned figures with<br />

picture hats ; women<br />

barefooted, high-heeled<br />

25

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