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With the Serbs in Macedonia

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GOING OVERSEAS 21<br />

thoroughly, which, of course, is only ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

way of say<strong>in</strong>g that Malta did us— or tried to.<br />

Malta, to a passer-by, is <strong>the</strong> sort of place that<br />

somehow or o<strong>the</strong>r leaves a nasty taste <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

mouth. Like its <strong>in</strong>habitants, it is very yellow<br />

and bright when <strong>the</strong> sun sh<strong>in</strong>es, but <strong>the</strong> people<br />

are not nice, and <strong>the</strong> spuriousness of its curios<br />

and <strong>the</strong> rapacity of its shopkeepers are obvious<br />

and irritat<strong>in</strong>g. Generalities, however, based<br />

on a three days' visit are ra<strong>the</strong>r too <strong>in</strong>sular, so<br />

let me say merely that we had a quite amus<strong>in</strong>g<br />

time <strong>the</strong>re and some very bad d<strong>in</strong>ners.<br />

The life and soul of our party was a solicitor<br />

subaltern of ours. Watson, barga<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> an<br />

hotel with a lace-vendor for th<strong>in</strong>gs he never<br />

<strong>in</strong>tended to buy, reduced us to tears. He even<br />

made <strong>the</strong> Maltese laugh, and solaced his feel<strong>in</strong>gs<br />

with half a crown when we bade him farewell.<br />

But Watson's greatest stunt was next day when<br />

we hired a car and drove round <strong>the</strong> island.<br />

After an excellent tea at an hotel by <strong>the</strong> water's<br />

edge, where we wasted many pennies<br />

on <strong>the</strong><br />

div<strong>in</strong>g boys, Watson had an <strong>in</strong>spiration dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> return journey. Maltese peasants go<strong>in</strong>g<br />

home after <strong>the</strong> day's work found <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />

saluted by four subalterns, who solemnly<br />

raised <strong>the</strong>ir helmets <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir best Regent Street<br />

manner. The effect was delicious. Off came<br />

<strong>the</strong> peasants' hats <strong>in</strong> response, and every one

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