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volume 2 - Robert Bedrosian's Armenian History Workshop

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Eski Baghddd. iii<br />

on the east bank, we caught a glimpse of the large high<br />

mound called " Tall al-Banat," or " Hill of the Maidens."<br />

Between it and us was much smoke or mist, but whether<br />

this was due to limekilns^ or the cool of the evening it<br />

was impossible to say. We tied up for the night on the<br />

west bank, opposite the mouth of the Nahrawan Canal,<br />

and near Tall al-Muhejir.<br />

We set out next morning, March 2nd, soon after<br />

daylight and did not attempt to cross to the east bank<br />

to see the ruins of the " Leaded Bridge " or " Leaded<br />

Dam " (Kantarat ar-Rasasah), so called because the<br />

stones are clamped together with lead. We passed<br />

Abu Dalif, on the east bank, where some columns of an<br />

old mosque were still standing, and then the ruins of<br />

the famous palaces and buildings which are grouped<br />

under the name of " Kasr al-Mutawakkil," and were<br />

known by the Arab geographers as the "Mutawakkiliyah,"<br />

or "Ja'fariyah." It is quite clear that from<br />

this point southward the whole of the east bank was the<br />

northern suburb of Samarra ;* a large part of this section<br />

of the bank is commonly called " Eski Baghdad," or<br />

" Old Baghdad." Soon after this we passed on the east<br />

bank a group of ruins called " Shinas," and then came to<br />

TaU 'AHj, the "Nose-bag mound'" of Felix Jones,<br />

who thought that it marked the spot where the body of<br />

Juhan the Apostate was burnt before its removal to<br />

Tarsus. It lies some distance from the river, probably<br />

two or three mUes. On the same side of the river were<br />

the ruins of the famous " Kasr al-Ma'shuk,"* or the<br />

" Castle of the Beloved," which was built by Mu'tamid,<br />

the son of Mutawakkil, about 890. A little lower down,<br />

on the west bank, we saw the ruined walls of Kasr al-<br />

'Ashik, which must have been a large and strong fortress,<br />

^ There were many limekilns here in Felix Jones' time, and the people<br />

of Dur supplied Baghdad with lime, sending it down the river on rafts.<br />

^ See Guy le Strange, Lands of the Eastern Caliphate, pp. 53-57.<br />

' An old Arab tradition says that the earth which formed this<br />

' nose-bags, '<br />

' or, in other words, that<br />

mound was brought there in horses' '<br />

sacks were used for carrying the earth there instead of wicker baskets.<br />

' The " Aaschouk " and " Maaschouk " of Thevenot (ii, p. 115),<br />

who says, " Les gens du pays disent que ces lieux sont ainsi nommez

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