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volume 2 - Robert Bedrosian's Armenian History Workshop

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Arak (Aracha). igi<br />

In spite of the kindness of the Ka'im Makam, who<br />

pressed me to stay three days and visit some ancient<br />

buildings which he said lay to the south, I determined<br />

to push on and we left Tudmur at 7 a.m. and began<br />

our journey across the desert to Der az-Zur. We rode a<br />

little out of our way so as to pass the northern end of the<br />

crescent-shaped salt lake called "Mamlahah," and again<br />

when we came near Kasr al-Ahmar, where there were a<br />

few unimportant ruins. We left the warm white fog<br />

behind us soon after we left Tudmur, and we found the<br />

heat of the day very great. We decided not to halt<br />

anywhere, and we pressed on until we reached Arak,<br />

or Arku, at 2 p.m. We pitched our tent at a little<br />

distance from the weU, which in ancient and modern<br />

times has formed the only water supply for the settlement.<br />

A town of considerable size existed here in the<br />

Byzantine period, and was called " Aracha " ;^ its garrison<br />

were natives and were under the control of the Duke<br />

of Euphratensian Syria. It was captured by the Arabs<br />

under Khalid ibn Walid about a.h. 142 == a.d. 635, and<br />

was in the days of Yakut (died 1229) much what it was<br />

when I saw it, "a little town in the desert of Aleppo<br />

near Tudmur with palms and olive trees. "^ Dr. Halifax<br />

calls Arak " Yarecca," and like myself found its excellent<br />

water " a most welcome refreshment in such a thirsty<br />

desert."* There was a small company of Turkish<br />

soldiers in the Kishla, or rest-house fort, a little way up<br />

the hiU, and most obUgingly the ofi&cer delayed quarantine<br />

until the day I left. No question of quarantine<br />

was raised at Tudmur, but though that place is nominally<br />

under a Turkish Ka'im Makam, the natives were<br />

a law unto themselves, and I never heard that they<br />

paid taxes. The shekh of the vUlage, Muhammad ibn<br />

Paris, was an old acquaintance of Muhammad, and<br />

acting under his advice I bought a sheep and invited<br />

' See Notitia Dignitatum, ed. Seeck, Berlin, 1876, p. 70, note 3.<br />

^ Biladhuri, p. no.<br />

' Vol. i, p. 210.<br />

* In his day the natives paid their overlord 300 dollars per annum<br />

see Quarterly Statement for 1890, p. 295.

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