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volume 2 - Robert Bedrosian's Armenian History Workshop

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226 Departure of Muhammad the Guide.<br />

order to find Nimrud Rassam, who was required to<br />

testify to my respectability, and to guarantee that I<br />

had no sinister designs on the garrison. After a wait<br />

which appeared endless Nimrud arrived, and having<br />

identified me and taken Muhammad under his charge,<br />

the great doors were thrown open and we were allowed<br />

to go to Nimrud's house. I got the beasts unloaded<br />

at once and sent them and the men with them to the<br />

khan, and arranged for their being well fed for a week ;<br />

for several days past neither we nor they had had much<br />

to eat, and we had marched many hours each day, and<br />

were very tired. It had taken us twenty-three days to<br />

travel^ from Damascus to Mosul, via Tudmur, Der az-<br />

Zur, 'Iran, Sinjar and Tall 'A'far, but then it must be<br />

remembered that we could not change our beasts anywhere<br />

on the road. The distance from Damascus to<br />

Der az-Zur is about 250 miles, and from Der az-Zur<br />

to Mosul about 240 miles, in all 490 mUes ; but on several<br />

occasions we had to make long detours in order to avoid<br />

a body of the Shammar Arabs, and we must have covered<br />

from first to last quite 550 mUes. Our shortest day's<br />

march was about twenty miles, and our longest about<br />

forty-five miles, and our average day's march was about<br />

twenty-four miles ; our most successful marches were<br />

those made at night. After a week's rest the muleteers<br />

and their beasts were hired by a merchant who was<br />

going to Diar Bakr, and those kindly men received<br />

their hire and a gift apiece, and left me with many grateful<br />

words. Muhammad and his camels were my guests<br />

for a week longer, and then one day he got up suddenly<br />

and said he wanted to go back to Damascus that night.<br />

I was very sorry to part with him, but he insisted on<br />

going, and late that evening he and his nephew rode<br />

quietly out of the SinjeLr Gate and were soon swallowed<br />

up in the darkness. He took with him my sincere<br />

gratitude and my gifts, viz., a good compass, a large<br />

clasp-knife and my small revolver, and I saw him no more.<br />

His kindness to me and forethought for me were great. I<br />

felt then, and still feel, that but for him I should never have<br />

crossed that great and terrible Syrian desert in safety.

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