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volume 2 - Robert Bedrosian's Armenian History Workshop

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Mdsul. 225<br />

we pjissed the village of Abu Marj ah, and when the fog<br />

lifted we found ourselves in a region with an appearance<br />

different from any which we had hitherto passed. At<br />

8.30 we reached 'Ain al-Beda, where there were several<br />

springs, and the mounds in the neighbourhood suggested<br />

that that district had at one time been well populated.<br />

An hour later we came to Wadi Dabunah, where there<br />

was much water, and lying about in all directions were<br />

large blocks of stone ; it seemed as if they must have been<br />

brought there from some quarry for building purposes.<br />

About eleven o'clock one of the camels stumbled and fell,<br />

and whilst he was resting we lighted a fire and boiled<br />

some of our crushed barley into soup which we flavoured<br />

with salt. When we moved on again at noon the camel<br />

limped and the other beasts showed many signs of fatigue<br />

and exhaustion, and our progress was slow. In the early<br />

afternoon rain fell, and though it wetted us to the skin<br />

it put new life into us, and we moved on a little faster.<br />

At 4.30 we sighted the minaret of the great mosque of<br />

Mosul, and saw the smoke of the limekUns rising in<br />

thick clouds behind the other buildings. Soon after<br />

this the ground became a stiff clay which the rain had<br />

made very slippery, and the legs of our weary beasts<br />

began to sUther about in all directions, and we found<br />

walking very difficult.<br />

When the night fell we were several miles from<br />

Mosul, but we had to go on, for water was an urgent<br />

necessity. How Muhammad managed to find his way<br />

I never made out, and at the fourth hour of the night<br />

(ten o'clock) we found ourselves outside the western<br />

gate of the town trying to gain admittance. We beat<br />

on the doors with stones and made a great noise, but<br />

the guards were fast asleep, and for a long time we<br />

heard no sound. Some men who also wanted to get<br />

into the town sprang up out of the darkness and began<br />

to hammer on the doors, and at length we heard a<br />

movement and a voice from the other side of them<br />

heaped curses and insults upon us and bade us begone.<br />

Finally someone in authority appeared, and after many<br />

questions allowed one of my two muleteers to enter in

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