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volume 2 - Robert Bedrosian's Armenian History Workshop

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I20 Arrival in Baghddd.<br />

and minarets of Kazimen, and two hours later we passed<br />

them and saw the bridge of boats of Baghdad. Almost<br />

immediately after this our kalakji was hailed by two<br />

men on the east bank, and after a short conversation<br />

with them at the top of his voice he told me that they<br />

had been sent to watch for us by the British Consul-<br />

General, and that we were to tie up our raft at the<br />

landing-stage of the Residency. In due course we<br />

reached the opening in the bridge of boats through which<br />

we were to pass, and when the officials had inspected<br />

us they ordered us to go to the Custom House so that<br />

the raft might be searched for contraband, and the bricks<br />

and slabs and altar be taken over by them. At this<br />

point the Delegate interfered and informed them that<br />

he was the Mufattish (Inspector) of Antiquities for the<br />

provinces of Jazirah, Mosul and Baghdad, and that<br />

Allah only knew what would happen to them in<br />

Jahannum if they touched a single brick. The bridge<br />

authorities did not in the least believe him, and sent a<br />

messenger to ask for instructions from the Mudir of the<br />

bridge. Meanwhile the raft was held in the opening<br />

between the boats, as the tow rope had been twisted<br />

round a spar projecting from one of the boats, and<br />

was under the charge of a river policeman. WhUst I<br />

was paying the bridge dues, profiting by a hint from<br />

the kalakji, I gave a bakhsMsh to the policeman who<br />

promptly loosened the tow rope and threw it on the<br />

raft, which floated through the bridge, and in a very<br />

short time we came to the landing-stage of the Residency<br />

on the east bank and tied up there. Thus we travelled<br />

from Mosul to Baghd§,d, a distance of about 300 miles<br />

in six days, or, deducting the hours spent in sleep and<br />

sight-seeing, two and a half days, or sixty hours.

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