november-2012

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HOW ALIVE ARE YOU? THE NEW JAGUAR XF SPORTBRAKE FROM € 45.900 VAT AT INCL Whatever your passion, the new Jaguar XF Sportbrake is the perfect balance of beauty and loadspace versatility. Full of the latest advanced technologies, it’s also the most efficient Jaguar ever. So whether you’re heading to the mountains, the beach, the park or the office, the new XF Sportbrake is as full of life as you are. WWW.JAGUAR.BE 5,1-6,2 L/100 KM. CO2: 135-163 G/KM. Environmental information [Belgian Royal Decree of 19 March 2004]: www.jaguar.be. Give priority to safety. Model shown with optional equipment.
ILLUSTRATION: EMMA KELLY @ HANDSOME FRANK T observation deck: copenhagen from nature to plate, Poul Arnedal delights in the nordic art of foraging en years ago, I would never have dreamt of wandering through the woods outside Copenhagen in search of ramsløg (ramson); now, I’ve become expert at spotting its tapering leaves and white-spiked flowers, and recognising its pungent, garlicky scent. And I’m not the only one. During the high season in May, I find plenty of other locals scouring the forest floor, as if they were looking for truffles or chanterelles. The revival of long-forgotten, local ingredients is largely down to the influence of one man: René Redzepi. The son of a Macedonian immigrant, he has transformed the Nordic kitchen and indeed helped to shape a whole continental cuisine.His restaurant, Noma, holds two Michelin stars; earlier this year, it was pronounced ‘the best restaurant in the world’ for the third consecutive year in the 50 best restaurants list. But as well as winning global renown for his harbourside restaurant, Redzepi has had a huge impact on the wider food scene here in Copenhagen. We now have 12 Michelin-starred eateries and 12 Bib Gourmand restaurants – not FLY TO copenhagen four times daily. brusselsairlines.com bad for a country of just five-anda-half million inhabitants. Perceptions of fine dining have shifted. Forget ostentatious French-inflected fare or imported caviar: nowadays, the true luxury ingredients are those that are seasonal, local and foraged. It’s a new approach, but one that goes very well with the relaxed, laid-back attitude of the Danes as a whole: snobbishness has never been a Danish trait. At Restaurant AOC, 27-year-old head chef Ronny Emborg elevates ingredients such as kohlrabi – previously considered more suitable for cattle fodder – nettles and moss to gourmet status, winning a Michelin star in the process. It’s the same story at Relæ, run by former Noma sous-chef Christian Puglisi. His motto is “keep it simple”, and the restaurant’s secondhand furniture, modest prices and cheap cutlery haven’t stopped the Michelin inspectors from rewarding it with a star this year. At home, too, the city’s foodies are taking a more experimental approach – though not everyone heads to the forest to find their ingredients. Inveterate urbanites prefer to do their foraging at Torvehallerne, the city’s upscale new covered market. After years of struggling with investment, it opened last year in two sleek, architect-designed glass halls on Israels Plads – a symbol of the city’s reawakened appetite for quality produce. Alongside acorn-fed Spanish hams and Italian olive oils there are more earthy, homegrown spoils: vivid green ramson, tender young goutweed leaves and tart sea-buckthorn berries. Of course, some ingredients are best left to the professionals: I’ve never tried my hand at serving live ants, which are sometimes to be found on the menu at Noma. According to Redzepi, they have a refreshing citrus taste. For now, though, I think I’ll just stick to lemons. Next month: Stockholm <strong>november</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 11
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