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u BCN BSL BRS HAJ MRS OSL PRG BMA TLV TRN<br />

turin<br />

italy<br />

61,261,254<br />

Euro (EUR)<br />

Twice daily<br />

+39 6°C<br />

Donald Strachan<br />

indulge your senses with fine art, superb<br />

cuisine and exquisite chocolate<br />

LINGOTTO<br />

The iconic 1920s Fiat factory<br />

has been reinvented with shops,<br />

concert halls and a sleek hotel –<br />

though the old test track remains.<br />

SLEEP Installed in part of architect<br />

Giacomo Mattè Trucco’s original Fiat<br />

plant, NH Lingotto Tech (230 Via<br />

Nizza, 011 6642000, nh-hotels.it,<br />

rooms from €114) is ideal for blending<br />

leisure and business. The design is<br />

sharp and modern, the spacious<br />

rooms flooded with light.<br />

CULTURE The art collection at the<br />

Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella<br />

Agnelli (230 Via Nizza) is small but<br />

perfectly formed, including several<br />

Venice cityscapes by Canaletto, along<br />

with works by Matisse, Picasso, Manet<br />

and Modigliani. The ticket includes<br />

access to the banked Fiat test track<br />

on the roof of the Lingotto building.<br />

SHOP Eataly (230/14 Via Nizza) is<br />

a wonderland of Italian ingredients,<br />

stocking everything from Vercelli<br />

risotto rice to Sicilian olive oil.<br />

TIP The food court in Lingotto’s<br />

8 Gallery (262 Via Nizza) mall has<br />

free, open-access Wi-Fi.<br />

LA CROCETTA<br />

The residential Crocetta area is<br />

slightly removed from the busy<br />

centre, and known for its handsome<br />

Art Nouveau apartment blocks.<br />

FLY TO turin twice daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

INFO<br />

Turin Airport is<br />

15km northwest<br />

of the centre.<br />

Bus<br />

A bus to central<br />

Turin runs every half<br />

hour, taking around<br />

45 minutes. Tickets<br />

cost €6.50 from a<br />

machine or ticket<br />

desk, or an extra<br />

€0.50 if you buy<br />

onboard.<br />

Train<br />

Trains depart for<br />

Dora Station every<br />

half hour, taking 19<br />

minutes. Tickets<br />

cost €3.70, or you<br />

can buy a day ticket<br />

for €6.80 that is<br />

valid on public<br />

transport across<br />

the city.<br />

Taxi<br />

A journey to the<br />

centre takes 30<br />

minutes and costs<br />

around €30.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The main offi ce is at<br />

Piazza Castello/Via<br />

Garibaldi, 011 535<br />

181, turismotorino.<br />

org. There are also<br />

offi ces at the airport<br />

and at Porta Nuova<br />

Station.<br />

Stroll Via Lamarmora to get a<br />

feel for the architecture, known<br />

here as Stile Liberty.<br />

SLEEP The modern mini-apartments<br />

at Residence Sacchi (34 Via Paolo<br />

Sacchi, 011 556 3811, residencesacchi.<br />

it, studios from €105) are spacious,<br />

well-equipped and just five minutes’<br />

walk from Porta Nuova Station. There’s<br />

no minimum stay policy.<br />

EAT Cerere (17 Via Legnano, 011 530<br />

470) serves up a refined take on hearty<br />

Piedmontese trattoria classics. The<br />

all-in tasting menu at €27 represents<br />

great value.<br />

SHOP You’ll find one of Turin’s liveliest<br />

and most eclectic local markets at the<br />

corner of Via Marco Polo and Largo<br />

Gian Domenico Cassini. The Mercato<br />

della Crocetta is held on weekday<br />

mornings and all day Saturday.<br />

TIP If you’re taking an iPhone, download<br />

the official TurismoTorino app from<br />

the App Store. It’s free and packed with<br />

sightseeing information.<br />

QUADRILATERO<br />

ROMANO<br />

The oldest part of the city has a<br />

street plan that dates from Roman<br />

times; these days, the best of the<br />

city’s nightlife is clustered here.<br />

SLEEP Offering understated urban<br />

cool at sensible prices. Town House 70<br />

On the right<br />

track: the<br />

Lingotto<br />

Tech bar<br />

(70 Via XX Settembre, 011 1970 0003,<br />

townhouse.it, rooms from €109) is the<br />

Quadrilatero’s most elegant address.<br />

EAT It’s not just about Piedmontese<br />

ingredients and cooking at L’Acino<br />

(2/A Via San Domenico, 011 521 7077);<br />

there’s also a top-notch wine list, mainly<br />

sourced from the hills around Turin.<br />

CULTURE The five-floor Museo d’Arte<br />

Orientale (11 Via San Domenico) has<br />

a wide-ranging collection that includes<br />

objects from India, China, Tibet and<br />

Japan. Among the prize exhibits are<br />

exquisite six-fold screens from<br />

Japan’s Edo period.<br />

SHOP Turin is renowned for its<br />

chocolate, especially gianduja – a<br />

mix of chocolate and hazelnut paste<br />

that was invented here during a<br />

19th-century cocoa shortage. Venchi<br />

(22 Via Giuseppe Garibaldi) is one of<br />

the best places in town to pick some<br />

up. A few doors along, the Juventus<br />

Store (4/E Via Giuseppe Garibaldi)<br />

sells replica kits and all manner of<br />

branded souvenirs celebrating Italy’s<br />

reigning football champions; staff can<br />

advise you where to buy tickets for<br />

the next home game.<br />

LATER The little piazzetta at the north<br />

end of Via Sant’Agostino, where it<br />

meets Piazza Emanuele Filiberto, is the<br />

heart of Turin’s bar life. It’s a little more<br />

chilled out around the corner at boho<br />

Casa Mad (24B/C Via Santa Chiara),<br />

with its creative €7 cocktail list.<br />

<strong>november</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 91

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