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u BCN BSL BRS HAJ MRS OSL PRG BMA TLV TRN<br />

bristol<br />

united kingdom<br />

63,047,162 +44 7°C<br />

british pound (gbp)<br />

three times daily<br />

Emma Howarth<br />

Art exhibitions, secret cocktail haunts and<br />

indoor markets offer respite from the cold<br />

CITY CENTRE &<br />

HARBOURSIDE<br />

There’s plenty of charm in central<br />

Bristol, if you know where to look.<br />

SLEEP Brooks Guesthouse (Exchange<br />

Avenue, via St Nicholas Street, (0)117<br />

930 0066, brooksguesthousebristol.<br />

com, rooms from €87/£70) offers<br />

much more than just a convenient<br />

location. There’s a lovely courtyard<br />

garden, bathrooms stocked with White<br />

Company products, an honesty bar and,<br />

most importantly, very reasonable rates.<br />

EAT St Nicholas Market’s Source Food<br />

Hall & Café (1-3 Exchange Avenue,<br />

(0)117 927 2998) serves up seasonal<br />

dishes alongside a food hall stocked<br />

with top-quality meat, fish, cheese and<br />

charcuterie. No time for a leisurely<br />

lunch? Wander through the market’s<br />

Glass Arcade, where global street food,<br />

freshly squeezed juices and Bristol’s<br />

feted Pieminister pies await. And few<br />

places beat the Olive Shed (Floating<br />

Harbour, Princes Wharf, (0)117 929<br />

1960) for atmospheric waterside<br />

views, good wine and spot-on tapas.<br />

CULTURE Bristol Jam at Bristol<br />

Old Vic (King Street) is a festival of<br />

improvisation, showcasing impromptu<br />

comedy, music, poetry, dance, drama<br />

and storytelling (until 11 November).<br />

LATER Hip but undeniably grown-up,<br />

Milk Thistle (Quay Head House,<br />

Colston Avenue) takes its cocktails<br />

seriously. Once you’ve gained entry<br />

INFO<br />

Bristol Airport is<br />

13km south of<br />

the centre.<br />

Bus<br />

The Airport Flyer<br />

Express Link bus<br />

operates 24 hours<br />

a day (except<br />

Christmas Day),<br />

connecting the<br />

airport, city centre,<br />

bus and train<br />

stations. Travel time<br />

to central Bristol is<br />

30 minutes, and<br />

services depart<br />

every 10 minutes at<br />

peak times. An adult<br />

return costs<br />

€12.50/£10.<br />

Taxi<br />

Checker Cars<br />

operates a 24-hour<br />

service from the<br />

airport. A taxi to<br />

Bristol city centre<br />

costs €32.50/£26<br />

and takes around<br />

30 minutes.<br />

Tourist info<br />

The Tourist<br />

Information Centre<br />

is located on the<br />

harbourside in the<br />

E-Shed building at<br />

1 Canons Road,<br />

(0)906 711 2191,<br />

visitbristol.co.uk<br />

(ring the doorbell or book ahead), you’ll<br />

find a creative drinks list and strict<br />

house rules: no name-dropping, fancy<br />

dress, swearing, hooting, shouting or<br />

shrieking. You have been warned.<br />

CLIFTON<br />

Georgian terraces and chic<br />

boutiques make this Bristol’s<br />

most upmarket locale.<br />

SLEEP Set in a Georgian townhouse,<br />

Number 38 (38 Upper Belgrave Road,<br />

(0)117 946 6905, number38clifton.com,<br />

rooms from €124/£100) has put Bristol<br />

on the boutique hotel map with its sleek<br />

decor, city views and sterling breakfasts.<br />

The green expanses of Clifton Down<br />

are just across the road.<br />

EAT The Albion (Boyce’s Avenue,<br />

(0)117 973 3522) ticks all the gastro<br />

pub boxes with hearty dishes like fish<br />

stew and massive steaks, a pretty<br />

courtyard and real ales; the hot cider is<br />

a sellout at the first sign of frost. The<br />

Lido Restaurant (Oakfield Place, (0)117<br />

933 9530) serves up well-presented<br />

modern European dishes, with views of<br />

the beautifully renovated Victorian lido.<br />

CULTURE The 160th Autumn Exhibition<br />

at the Royal West of England<br />

Academy (Queen’s Road) runs<br />

throughout November, with hundreds<br />

of works by established and unknown<br />

artists on sale.<br />

LATER Hausbar (52 Upper Belgrave<br />

Road) mixes perfect – and potent –<br />

Work up an appetite at<br />

the Lido Restaurant<br />

cocktails in a speakeasy-style<br />

basement. Ring the bell for entry.<br />

TIP Bristol’s Lido & Spa (see left) is<br />

heated to perfection for year-round<br />

open-air swims. Non-members are<br />

welcome on weekdays (1pm-4pm).<br />

STOKES CROFT &<br />

MONTPELIER<br />

Independently minded Stokes Croft<br />

and bohemian Montpelier showcase<br />

Bristol’s celebrated counter-culture.<br />

EAT Runcible Spoon (3 Nine Tree Hill,<br />

(0)117 329 7645) is adored by Stokes<br />

Croft’s defiantly anti-capitalist locals.<br />

Run as a worker’s co-operative, it<br />

champions seasonal British food with<br />

imaginative dinner menus, Saturday<br />

fry-ups and hangover-defying Sunday<br />

roasts. Montpelier stalwart Bell’s Diner<br />

(1-3 York Road, (0)117 924 0357) takes<br />

things up a notch with its serene dining<br />

room, Blumenthal-esque tasting menus<br />

and sophisticated wine list.<br />

SHOP Love Bristol Pop Up Bakery<br />

(123 Stokes Croft) sells locally sourced<br />

baked goods. In Montpelier, La Belle<br />

Boutique (47 Picton Street) houses a<br />

beautifully curated mix of vintage<br />

clothing and homeware.<br />

LATER Come 10pm at the weekend,<br />

Canteen (80 Stokes Croft) is signposted<br />

by a sizeable queue. Head here early to<br />

beat the crowds, claim a sofa and tuck<br />

into the good-value bar menu before<br />

the nightly live music and DJs kick off.<br />

82 <strong>november</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

FLY TO bristol three times daily. brusselsairlines.com

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