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u BCN BSL BRS HAJ MRS OSL PRG BMA TLV TRN<br />

oslo<br />

norway<br />

4,707,270 +47 1°C<br />

Norwegian Krone (NOK)<br />

Twice daily<br />

Anna Maria Espsäter<br />

It’s all change Down by the waterfront – now<br />

home to a striking new building by Renzo Piano<br />

CENTRE<br />

The centre of Norway’s capital<br />

is compact enough to explore on<br />

foot, whether you’re shopping<br />

or exploring some of its myriad<br />

cultural attractions.<br />

SLEEP The Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel<br />

(3 Sonja Henies Plass, 22 058000,<br />

radissonblu.com, rooms from €212/<br />

NOK1545) is one of Oslo’s few<br />

skyscrapers, and the largest hotel<br />

in Norway. All the usual modern<br />

amenities, including free Wi-Fi, can be<br />

found in its exceedingly comfortable<br />

rooms, and there’s a gym, swimming<br />

pool and sauna.<br />

EAT The self-service Kaffistova<br />

(8 Rosenkrantz’ Gate, 23 214210)<br />

specialises in homemade, rustic<br />

Norwegian cooking – perfect for a<br />

chilly autumnal evening. It also has<br />

a deli selling Norwegian produce, if<br />

you’re after some edible souvenirs.<br />

SHOP Karl Johans Gate, Oslo’s<br />

main thoroughfare, offers plenty of<br />

shopping opportunities. The street<br />

runs for roughly a kilometre and is<br />

pedestrianised in the centre from<br />

Stortinget (the Parliament) to the<br />

railway station.<br />

LATER The recently renovated<br />

34 SkyBar (34th floor, Radisson<br />

Blu Plaza Hotel, 3 Sonja Henies Plass)<br />

offers some superb cityscapes,<br />

to be savoured with expertly<br />

concocted cocktails.<br />

FLY TO oslo twice daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

INFO<br />

Gardermoen Airport<br />

is 45km from the<br />

city centre.<br />

Train<br />

The airport express<br />

train, Flytoget, costs<br />

€23.50/NOK 170,<br />

with six departures<br />

per hour. It’s also<br />

worth checking out<br />

NSB, the national<br />

rail company, which<br />

is slower but also<br />

convenient; tickets<br />

cost from €12.50/<br />

NOK 90.<br />

Taxi<br />

A taxi to the city<br />

centre costs around<br />

€95/NOK695<br />

before 5pm and<br />

€123/NOK895<br />

after 5pm.<br />

Tourist info<br />

Oslo’s tourist offi ce<br />

is on the plaza at<br />

the city’s main<br />

train station, at<br />

1 Jernbanetorget,<br />

8153 0555,<br />

visitoslo.com.<br />

There’s another<br />

outpost by the<br />

City Hall.<br />

Astrup Fearnley Museum<br />

of Modern Art, on the<br />

waterfront at Tjuvholmen<br />

TIP The Oslo Pass, valid for 24,<br />

48 or 72 hours, includes free travel<br />

on public transport, as well as<br />

entrance to many of the city’s<br />

museums and sights. A 24-hour<br />

pass costs from €36.50/NOK 270.<br />

AKER BRYGGE &<br />

TJUVHOLMEN<br />

Thanks to building projects on<br />

the reclaimed land at Tjuvholmen,<br />

this area is rapidly expanding –<br />

and becoming one of the city’s<br />

most fashionable addresses.<br />

EAT Sjømagasinet (14 Tjuvholmen<br />

Allé, 23 897777) and Lofoten<br />

Fiskerestaurant (75 Stranden,<br />

22 830808) are two of Oslo’s finest<br />

seafood restaurants. Both have<br />

terrific harbour views.<br />

CULTURE The Astrup Fearnley<br />

Museum of Modern Art (2<br />

Strandpromenaden) re-opened<br />

on Tjuvholmen in September, in<br />

striking new premises designed by<br />

Italian architect Renzo Piano. The<br />

opening exhibition, To be with art<br />

is all we ask, presents works from<br />

the museum’s vast collection of<br />

contemporary art, and includes<br />

pieces by Cindy Sherman, Jeff<br />

Koons and Richard Prince.<br />

LATER The Beer Palace (3 Holmens<br />

Gate) is a convivial pub in the heart<br />

of Aker Brygge, just off the waterfront.<br />

Not only does it serve good beer, it<br />

also has a commendable selection<br />

of malt whiskies and bourbons.<br />

TIP Local ferries leave from the<br />

piers next to Aker Brygge – perfect<br />

for those wanting to explore further<br />

afield or see a bit more of the Oslo<br />

fjords. The boats are cosy even in<br />

winter, when the operators sell hot<br />

drinks and provide blankets. Public<br />

transport tickets are valid, or you<br />

can buy a day pass.<br />

BYGDØY<br />

The Peninsula of Bygdøy, in<br />

the western part of Oslo, is<br />

home to some of Norway’s best<br />

museums. It’s easy accessible:<br />

take the number 30 bus from<br />

outside the National Theatre,<br />

off Karl Johans Gate.<br />

SLEEP The Rica Hotel Bygdøy<br />

Allé (53 Bygdøy Allé, 23 085800,<br />

rica-hotels.com, rooms from €158/<br />

NOK1150) isn’t far from the Bygdøy<br />

sights, and is set in a pleasant, turreted<br />

building. This is a quiet neighbourhood,<br />

but one with easy access to the centre<br />

of the city.<br />

CULTURE The Museum Area<br />

extends over a large part of Bygdøy<br />

and takes in the Kon-Tiki Museum,<br />

Viking Ship Museum, Norwegian<br />

Maritime Museum and Cultural<br />

History Museum. You could spend<br />

days exploring their permanent<br />

collections and temporary exhibitions.<br />

<strong>november</strong> <strong>2012</strong> 87

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