november-2012

LUXURY CRAFTSMANSHIP
Clockwise from top left: Master craftsman Mohammed Benelcaïd, whose job,
he says, is all about “patience and passion”; a ‘Brilliant’, whose iconic design
dates from 1958, is meticulously assembled before being stitched; craftsman
Santiago Dieznebreda works on a Delvaux diary; a 1980s handbag awaits repair
in the after-sales department, which restores around 500 pieces every month
a 25-year-old bag in for repairs, my name was on it.” Even so,
he’s not the longest-serving member of staff: that honour goes
to Brigitte Marcq. In the 44 years she has worked here, she
says, the way the bags are made has hardly changed. “Even
this handle takes more than an hour’s work,” she says, gently
setting it aside. “We could never be replaced by machines.”
Nonetheless, times are changing at Delvaux. Last
September, Hong Kong-based Fung Brands acquired a
majority stake in the company, injecting much-needed funds.
It caused an outcry in the Belgian press, sparking rumours
that the whole enterprise would be moved to China. In fact,
it remains business as usual down in the atelier – though
up in the first-floor offices, a new CEO has been installed.
Newly arrived in Brussels – it is his eighth day in the
job – Marco Probst has come from Chloé in Paris. He is
still settling into the role, but says the main aim is to realise
the brand’s potential outside Belgium and extend its global
reach, without compromising the quality and heritage. “The
house has an incredible history, and huge potential,” he
explains. “It’s a Sleeping Beauty, waiting to be woken.” By
his desk is a handsome ‘President’ briefcase, in elegant tan.
He hasn’t yet checked the carte d’authenticité to see which
of the craftsman made it – “But I can probably just go down
to the atelier and someone will recognise it.” Like all of
Delvaux’s bags, it is built to last. “Perhaps the longevity is
a problem!” he jokes. “The quality is too good.”
Back in the atelier, it’s true that the after-sales department
repair and restore around 500 pieces a month, some of which
date back 30 or 40 years. “These are investment pieces,
but the real value is often sentimental,” says Emmanuel
Van Wilder, the head of the department. “Some owners are
very careful, and you can tell when a bag has been handed
down through the generations.” Every repair brings its own
challenges: to replace the handle of the ‘Têmpete’ that has
just come in – a handsome, box calf model from the 1970s –
the entire bag must be taken apart and reassembled. It is
34 november 2012
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