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november-2012

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four seasons<br />

When I first visited Budapest nearly<br />

20 years ago, the Gresham Palace was<br />

gresham palace<br />

a sorry affair – dank, decaying with<br />

Széchenyi István tér 5-6,<br />

holes in the roof and trees growing out<br />

1051, Budapest<br />

of the walls. Despite its impoverished<br />

+36 (1) 268 6000<br />

circumstances, it was an undeniably<br />

fourseasons.com<br />

handsome, elegant building, still<br />

dignified but quietly desperate for<br />

words jane wright<br />

the restoration it so richly deserved.<br />

Thankfully, along came the Four Seasons with a team of expert<br />

and visionary artisans who lovingly returned it to the glorious art<br />

nouveau splendour it is today, its gleaming pale stone, fairytale<br />

curved turrets and intricate gold inlaid mosaics all testament to<br />

the architectural craftmanship of the early 20th century.<br />

Sitting on the Pest side of the city directly opposite the famous<br />

Chain Bridge with views over Castle Hill, the Gresham Palace<br />

commands one of the key positions on the Danube, so request a<br />

room with one of the most romantic river views in Europe. This is<br />

a hotel of simple understated elegance, each room beautifully<br />

appointed and spacious, with ornate two-toned maroon and<br />

white marble bathrooms and deliciously comfortable beds.<br />

The centre-piece lobby draws the eye upward to a magnificent<br />

glass cupola and everywhere is evidence of stained glass and<br />

ceramic art nouveau detail, whether you are taking afternoon tea<br />

in the Kafehaz or climbing the wide stone staircases. Dinner in<br />

the Pava Restaurant is a grand affair, offering a degustation menu<br />

accompanied by excellent Hungarian wines for a reasonable<br />

HUF15,000 (€53). Danube River rooms from €435 per night.<br />

FLY TO budapest five times daily. brusselsairlines.com<br />

MTE ETON EES<br />

MEANA SENN RONORA MM <br />

ATER RESSTANT U TO M EET<br />

SARE RSTA<br />

MONTRES VENUS S.A.<br />

A RUE E A RO OR ENVESUSSE<br />

T.

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